Jarred_Jackman

Anybody been on this traverse lately and have recent conditions? Thanks

What you're mentioning sounds like an option for skirting Sherpa, is that correct? I liked climbing Sherpa, just wish there were a better way to the col between Sherpa and Argonaut.

It's out. Looks like it's been out awhile.

Trip: Attempt on Stuart Ridge Traverse - SRT Trip Date: 08/04/2020 Trip Report: I'm writing this down so people attempting this might have a bit more info as it seems that info (or lack thereof) is the crux. We didn't complete it for a multitude of reasons but maybe I learned something that will help others succeed. Approached from Stuart Lake Trailhead and hiked to a bivy just shy of the base of the NR. This is a nice plan as you don't have to find your way into the climb in the dark, all the while watching the clock tick. You have the same weight you'd normally have plus one dinner. That said, sleep was impossible as mosquitoes swarmed all night and we had no shelter other than the stewy warmth of our sleeping bags. Water is easy to find below the climb. We climbed the NR then descended quite a lot to get to the col below Sherpa's WR. Climbed that, it's not 5.4. It's by no means difficult, but I'd expect some 5.6ish stuff for sure. Maybe I was just tired. We did Sherpa in two leads. Now the difficulty begins. Getting to the Sherpa Argonaut Col is a pain and takes some time. If you've done this section without rapping down the S gullies and hiking around and through all the rock ribs and shrubs and trees and scree and sand, to the Col, please chime in. I saw a rap that went to Sherpa's N but I couldn't tell if it "went" or not, after the rap, we opted not to roll the dice. I have a suspicion this is the better route. Aug 4-5, 2020, no water available en route. We found a patch of snow lower on the NR and then the snow on the Cascadian descent, but no drips. We heard running water in some of the gullies near Sherpa but they all seemed to low and too far and maybe the water wasn't even accessible. We bivied at the Sherpa Argonaut Col and ran out of fuel melting snow for water and dinner. Plus Argo looks like a peak wrought with difficult travel along that West Ridge. We bailed and found water in 20 minutes. This would be an option for intrepid climbers hell bent on continuing. Could easily drop down and refill on water, then continue. The descent from the col was pretty chill. I'd say the bivy at the col is comfortable enough for sure. You're out in the open, just hoping the wind will keep the bigs at bay. Long and short of it, gotta move move move, and find water. If you bivy, bring some netting to keep bugs off or you won't sleep. Leave the filter as all the water you access up high is safe (my opinion). Parking lot to bivy: 3 hours Bivy to base: 10 minutes Base to Stuart summit 6.5 hours Stuart summit to base of Sherpa 1.5 hours Didn't keep track of time after this but we climbed WR Sherpa quickly and contemplated our fates on the summit. Found a FF down jacket that mice and rodents were pilfering for their homes. Also some delicious Shot Blocks and Honey Stingers. If only we had found a gallon of water! It's out there, it's hard, go get it! Gear Notes: Rack .3-3 with double of .4-2, nuts, 12 slings and 2 double length (this could be trimmed a bit if needed but I used it all twice on long simul sections) 60m 8.5mm rope (this was better than doubling a half as we could simul with the grigri) Stiff approach shoes are confidence inspiring on the snow and the N stuff was firming up by early evening. Poles were nice in a variety of sections and an ax would have been dead weight but we likely would have wanted it descending Argo. Approach Notes: Stuart Lake Trailhead

Great work. Soloing puts one in such a unique mental space. Way to get after it on a BIG mountain. Be prudent and safe. Don't allow hubris to take you too far too fast. Enjoy pushing yourself!

Just throwing this out to see if I can locate the owners. We found two backpacking style packs on the WR of Stuart the other day. They were heavily sun faded. Found them stashed in a small rock crevice below the West Horn more or less. I went through the packs as they seemed out of place and as though they'd been there a while. I was wondering if someone had abandoned them or maybe if someone was injured on the mountain. We found a wilderness use permit "tag" that was dated 8/5/2017 with two names, Tim Pale or Pate, and Jim Schiller. (This obviously told us that there wasn't a current emergency nearby.) A quick internet search revealed that these two were in an accident on the mountain and had to be rescued via helicopter. One actually lives in the same town as me, Camas, WA. Crazy. Anyhow, the packs are still there as is some random gear, a couple 30M ropes, etc. If anyone knows these guys or if either Tim or Jim see this post, feel free to reach out to me. If you'd like the packs back, they're not all that hard to recover if a person would be willing to pack them up to the summit and down the CC. Otherwise, this just makes for an interesting piece of knowledge if you find yourself on the WR of Stuart and stumble upon a couple of mysterious backpacks.

Looking for two climbers from Seattle, Chris and Chelsea. I met them on MHC and Vesper. Anyway, if you're out there, this is Jarred. Send me a message or something. I'm hoping to invite you to some fun times involving deserts, climbing, and fall/early winter timeframes. Take Care

Anybody have current info on Slesse and the glacier in the corner pocket? I imagine it doesn't usually slide this early but with all the early warmth maybe I'll get lucky. I've never been up there so don't have any first hand knowledge to go on. Anybody, anybody??? Thanks

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/spo/d/climbing-ropealmost-new/6630523612.html

I have a plan to climb the complete NR of Stuart, then Backbone on Dragontail, then Stanley Burgner, with full rest days between. What I don't have however, is a partner. If you're interested in this let me know. We could meet up and do a bit of climbing beforehand to see if we're compatible. I've done all of these mountains but only the NR regarding the routes. I'm planning for midweek is possible and will just try to grab a permit the day of. This has worked well for me in the past. My timeline is flexible as I'm a teacher and will have a lot of free time after June 21st.

ANybody know if there's a shoe out there that has both ankle protection (like Sportiva's TC Pro) but also velcro closures instead of lace ups? I realize there are slight chances where velcro might be an issue with crack climbing, but I really love taking my shoes off while belaying and I want some ankle protection when trad climbing. I've looked around but can't find anything. Thanks!

Anybody been up Triple Couloirs recently? I'd imagine it's thin but assume it might be in. I'm a 5 hour drive away so am hoping to wait until it's definitely in, to make the drive. Thanks!

Any idea how long it took you from parking lot to summit?

Next time for sure. Just looking for a solo day today. Beacon? Now I'm jealous. Dry?

Just did the route today. I haven't climbed snowy mountain routes other than the south side of Hood in about 8-10 years. So I'm sure I'm not the best gauge of how difficult something is. I've climbed the route with a tool and axe in the past. I had two tools today and although I appreciated them on more than a few occasions I think a tool and an axe would have been ideal. There's some steep terrain on the Reid depending on how high you cross. Traversing below the rock ribs was a bit of everything, hard alpine ice, styrofoam, unconsolidated snow to knee high. Once in the couloir you can stay in deeper snow, or utilize more ice on the sides, whatever you prefer. There were a couple spots where it seemed like I HAD to be on front points, no snow to plunge into. Lots of front pointing on the route in general. Up top be ready for deeper snow from ankle to thigh, then some of that chandelier ice Hood is known for, before you hit the summit ridge. Had it to myself today despite a million people on the SS route.