Nelly

Bad things happen, planes crash, cars run into things, houses burn, people fall off mountains and bits and pieces of mountains fall onto people. Is a beginner, less experienced climber more/less likley to get killed on a dog route than an experienced climber on a hard route with lots of objective hazards? Check the stats in the Himalaya, hard men/women get the chop at a fairly high rate. However, it doesn't generate the media focus. The ever increasing number of climbers certainly relates directly to an increase in the number of accidents. Beating it to death in the media only fuels the fire for regulation. And, quite frankly, one can't regulate out the dangers inherent to climbing.

Anyone recently been into the area? Is the road open to the trailhead? How much snow enroute to Ingalls? Thanks

Amber, MODEST - Having or showing a lack of conceit or vanity!

Good job marek, most posters on this site don't care about anything beyond the pub club - nice climb, BIG MOUNTAINS Rule......

Anybody have any belay horror stories? Personally, I'm pretty tough on partners who exhibit poor belay skills. Would anyone quit climbing with someone simply due to lousy belay skills? For instance, a number of years ago while climbing with someone I had just met, I looked down while leading and saw he had about 20 feet of slack in the rope. I asked him what was up with the slack - his response - "don't worry, the climbing looks easy!" Needless to say, our partnership didn't progress.

Thanks for the info - should of done the search first, though.

Is a single 60 meter rope long enough to make the rappel from Sharkfin Col to the Boston Glacier? Beckey indicates it requires two ropes (heading to the N. Ridge of Forbidden).

Looking for a used double ledge in good shape, don't want to pay new car prices.

Check their mortality rate - then decide!

Fishstick: Yep, we rented a HF radio from Andy Williams. We could receive from time to time, but could never transmit. We dragged it around for awhile then finally reconciled in our minds that we were w/o communications and simply had to wait for Andy to show up on our pre-arranged p/u date. However, that place is way too remote to feel good about being a party of two w/o any means of communication.

We would of killed for a sattelite phone on Mt. Steele in the Canadian Icefields. As it was, the 20 pound brick we rented wasn't worth a damn. The boyz with Sat. Phones were the envy of the range!

Has anyone climbed the obvious couloir seen from the road on the north side of Lane Peak? If so, can you provide route details? Thanks

A few years ago on an Alaskan trip, a friend slipped in a bunch of centerfolds in the food bag. He also brought a bunch of Super Market tabloids for stormbound entertainment. We have carried on the tradition ever since!

Make sure to haul your fuel AWAY from food and clothing. I've seen more than one expedition foiled by leaking fuel cans. The flight services refill old cans, so pick your fuel wisely and check the lid for a tight seal. 3 gallons of fuel is more than adequate. The old 1 cup/person/day rule insures you won't run out of fuel.

Nice!!

Has anybody climbed in this area? I have the route description compiled by Clint Cummins, various Alpine Journal entries, and or course, the story by Dave Roberts about their 1st ascent of Shot Tower. However, if anyone has any first hand experience in the area, I'd certainly appreciate your input. My plans are to head up in the spring/summer of 2003.

A few years ago I went to the Ruth Gorge and got spanked big time! We then flew to Little Switzerland and more than made up for the humiliation we experienced in the Ruth.......I liken LS to the Bugaboos with easier approaches. There are lots of opportunities for routes of all degrees of difficulty, lots of FA's just waiting to be plucked, the skiing is great, no lines, great scenery and good rock! Talk with Paul at Talkeetna Air Taxi, he climbs in there a lot. He pointed out some areas of untouched stone.

I've been using the Silent Partner for both solo top roping and solo aid and free climbing. It's by far the safest and best method I've used yet. I've used the soloist in the past and it works well too, but not and easily or, in my opinion, as safely as the Silent Partner.

Check with the Ranger Station in Sisters. They seem to keep track of the Pole Creek Road conditions: (541) 549-7700 Elvis Lives!

Thanks J Fisher, very nice report - that gully sounds terrible! So, did you at least get a look at the 8 pitch that starts right of the gulley?

Any of the reputable manufactures will stand behind their gear. My Gregory pack busted a seam - whamo - new pack, no questions asked. BD pants failed after one outing - again, new pants, no questions asked. North Face Bibs proved worthless, bango, they took back the bibs, with only a few questions asked. It stinks when gear fails, especially in the back country or on a climb - but let's face it, we treat this stuff pretty rough. As Will Strickland advised, inspect the gear closely b/4 purchasing and I like FreeClimb9's advice about avoiding first runs...

This thread probably won't go far, but what the heck. In an effeort to be a good father and husband I finally went out and started looking at life insurance policies. Wow, I was shocked to learn that being a climber makes me a suicidal maniac and I'm gonna die any minute. Actually, they say climbers have a higher mortality rate and, as such, need to pay increased rates, way increased! I contend, that just the opposite is true. That the generally healthy life style that accompanies climbing results in a lower mortality rate than the general public. I don't have any hard numbers, but of all the thousands and millions of climbers in the US, the mortality rate can't be much different than the general, McDonalds eating, TV watching, talking on the cell phone while driving, public! My insurance agent just gives me a blank stare and the underwriters don't excell in debate and discussion. If anybody out there is up to speed on Life Insurance, your 2 cents would be appreciated.

Nice attitude - happy recruiting!

Erik -fair enough, but again, who's at fault!

Erik - sorry, now it's clear why the insurance industry is held in such esteem. Keep driving, you're almost there.....