leearden

Yes, they used a GPS to access the point from a road, walked in, toproped the thing from above during a weeks long cold snap. They said it was VERY wet climbing, and this was during a once / decade cold spell( down in Spokane at least). I recall they said the river was frozen, though I don't think they toproped it from the very bottom.

Erik and I happily used your rap anchors on the way back down to the highway last night. Thank you. We also placed rap anchors above and below the black striped flake, hanging SUPPLE AND POUTING, at the top of the wall. Unable to reasonably link L&P to our fall line, we rapped straight down to a smaller cave, then down another 200'.... We cleaned 200' of SPLITTER finger locks, accessible from 50' left of the beast. 2 pitches of finger sized bliss. Both pitches climbable and rappable with 1 60m cord. COME AND GET IT BITCHES! We cleaned and equipped it but didn't climb it, because we wanted YOU to get it first.

Sweet pictures gentlemen. They've made my day. Great job on the red point too. kudos

Oh yeah, Jim Langdon and Mead Hargis topped it out and descended climbers right 43 years ago. One day, on site, via a different route.

Only erik and I, now you. As far as I know

Thanks for the update Blake, I am pleased to hear of the wall getting some traffic, it definitely deserves the attention. L and I are starting to consider getting back there this year, especially since hearing reports of new intro pitches that will surely make the approach easier, as well as making the descent quicker and safer. Thanks to whomever has taken the effort to upgrade the crag. Anyone here know about new additions to m and m wall?

Thanks to Jeff and Partner, and thanks to Joe and Partner for the beta. NOTE--Unnecessarily long post intended for anyone seeking details about the climb and approach.We did the route on Sunday, but likely would have headed west to more popular climbs in the cascades if we hadn't seen your posts here regarding the Lion's Head. We drove in after dark Saturday late, thus missing views of the massif from the road in. A bit disoriented, we started walking Sunday morning with only a vague clue where the cliff actually was. We found the hiker's flagging immediately (hard to miss), and followed them uphill until they ended (this was a mistake, and we should of broken off right early on). Heeding Joe's comment of staying higher to walk on slabs rather than 'schwacking through the jungle, we chose to err on the side of caution, staying high. This put us on the ridge to the NE of the wall, where we descended to the cliff from the climber's left (east). Upon arriving and looking back to where we started, we clearly had covered WAY more terrain and elevation than we needed to. Although we had negligible bushwhacking and easy walking on stone, our approach probably wasted an hour or so. We took about 3 hours to the base. I gambled, hoping I'd be able to find snow-melt at the wall (Thanks for the pictures Jeff!!!), E chose to carry all his water in........SUCKER. Snow melt was ample and should remain so for the season. The route was awesome, awesome, awesome. Big ledges, skint knees, shade all day, free water at the base, these were undoubtedly the best 5 pitches I've done all year! We agreed that the route was NOT "dirty" (E called it fairly clean, I called it pretty clean), though it's clear that the 2 recent ascents cleaned off many of those foot smears for us(thanks again gentlemen). We managed to find the faint climbers trail and flagging at the toe of the talus field, this way out was a cake walk compared to our approach course. We probably could have reached the car in an hour if not for those delicious berries everywhere. The climbers trail is direct, though faint. Some markers are visible, we kept an eye out for logs that had been sawn as an indication of the human trail. It is unlikely that I could have found or even stayed on the trail on my onsite attempt of the approach. We were fastidious about staying on the trail, backtracking many times. I'm glad we did. Please...DO THIS ROUTE

thank you for sharing!

...uhm..... i mean....... nice pics.......... real pretty. looks beautiful,.......

F@ off!!!!

WORD! ( I totally agree with you) Marc and summitcjb. It would be great to watch... if everyone valued the bold and beautiful, though I must respect that some like to have bolts and a lesser commitment option for all climbs. Boldness will always be worth something,... in our own heads. Also, let's respect the feeling of climbing a bolted route, WITHOUT THE BOLTS THAT EVERYONE ELSE USES. For a climber to feel that complete commitment to his/her gear and to the universe that Mr. Leclerc alludes, all the while ignoring the impulse to "bitch out" and clip that bolt right next to your hand. Isn't that a good feeling too? Then you can rename the trad version of the same line----"Equipped by a pussy" to append: Perhaps you've read Mr. Honnold's account of his free solo of the Regular Route, with the tat from a perfectly good bolt blowing across his hand as he contemplated a long, long, long trip into eternity...?????? Look it up... what did Alex do?????????????? ----------THAT WAS BALLS

This left shoe still has good rubber on the toe and nearly fits me. Shoe looks to have been lost only 1 or 2 years back. If you are still in possession of the right shoe, or any other slightly smaller sized shoes with good rubber, please send them to me immediately. love arden

cool post jizzy, i've read all the posts, thinking how moving it would have been to be in the mountains that day.... I was trying to build a snowman in Missoula, outside of the "X"s. That fargin' "snow" just would NOT to pack into a ball. My Mom came out to make me wear one of her tube-tops on my face as a mask. I recall being disgusted at the thought of me mum's boob-garment on my face

I don't know how much is private, but I did notice full page real estate advertisements in the climbing magazines a few years back. Advertisements said to buy this land, build a house, have your own private crag right off your deck. probably not good for john Q. public

I recently, ignorantly posted pictures of climbing (on what I thought was State land) to share information and stoke with the local community. Local landowners have expressed concern about images of their "backyards" easily found over the internet. Cordially they've requested these pictures be taken down. To help preserve our access, can anyone help me edit the titles of the pictures i've submitted? I wish I could just delete them from the gallery, but i've not yet figured out how. help thanks