rat
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i believe dan was on the early attempts but not the fa. klewin and bibler got the first complete ascent. dan's brother, pat, was on the second complete ascent.
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awesome.
that might be the first complete ascent (i.e. to the summit) of that face. it is possible that cal and partner climbed the north ridge (see wayne's tr from a year or two ago).
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Yup. I descended the Japanese route after climbing the NE ridge. Both routes were bad but the Japanese route was horrendous.
ne ridge is a classic for the rockies. your risk tolerance was on the wane.
the japanese route might actually be safer in winter.
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old and older #3 and #4 rigid stem friends. well used.
#4's (2) -- $15 each obo
#3 (1) -- $10 obo
#3 with frayed wire -- $5 obo
old modular stubai rock hammer (round hammer head). $10 obo.
drop off or pick up in seattle or you pay postage.
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marko and i climbed a couple 2-3 pitch wi 2-3/3+ routes at the end of the money creek road yesterday. north facing...no sun. the rightmost route, up the creek just prior to the damon mine, was nicest and only 10 minutes from the pickup. bushwacking took us leftward to an even easier rambling route. bring 2 ropes or expect some relatively thorny bushwacking on the descents.
potential exists for more easy routes here. there are also some shorter but harder looking pillars quite a ways up the south facing drainages of money creek that were deteriorating.
goat basin was also holding ice but we didn't suss out which route was which.
added a few of marko's photos. probably gone and/or buried for this season but those looking for easy routes close to the car might put it on the back burner for next year.
overview
pitch 2
bring 2 ropes to avoid this
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i'm looking for a couple gas jets, marked "xg" for a pre-shaker jet xgk. if you have any of these ancient bits just lying around, let me know what you want for them. thanks.
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you're either a youngster or your taste in wine was/is too high brow. i make no assumption regarding your taste in ladies' underwear, so to speak.
don't forget the venerable gallon jugs of "yosemite road" for road trips to the ditch. rip.
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thanks for the emotional beat down, mike. gonna have a good cry and go to my healing place now.....
hope all is well in new yawk.
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Trip: burgundy spire - annie green springs
Date: 9/13/2014
Trip Report:
a bit of info about this neglected, wandering but worthwhile route:
1. the direct approach up the paisano/burgundy gully is probably not the best approach. someone placed a relatively new shit show bolt on the slab left of the big chockstone mentioned in the cag. we tunneled under the chockstone from the right. the best approach is via a hidden gully located right of the toe of burgundy's west butt. this would take you easily and directly to the top of the chockstone.
2. 3+ pitches up and rightward (as shown on the cag topo, not leftward as mentioned in the text) lead to the sandy ledge/gully. take the cleanest cracks--quite good climbing if you can overlook the somewhat treed nature of the surrounding area.
3. 2 pitches rising leftward to the right side of the big roof. not the best. perhaps better to do one more pitch directly above the sandy ledge then traverse?
4. up nice layback crack/slab then traverse far left. continue up a pitch to near the top of the greenery. very fine hands/fist crack up to square roof then hand traverse left to crest.
5. directly up crest for full pitch. continue to ridge jct above (sw ridge?) and climb a varied pitch along left side of crest directly over the summit.
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i know the area but not the crag. found a farming operation not too far away some years ago. cougars aren't the only thing of which to be wary in that neighborhood.
dresden-like. the swauk/mission gang must have tired of their shit-show bolting. have fun. never know, briody might have beat you to it.
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that looks swell. nice jorb.
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you professionals are so needy:
dave cheesmond's north twin crack gloves.
photo by barry blanchard during this insignificant little jaunt http://www.barryblanchard.ca/northtwin
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send me a pm with a description of the shoes and i will drop them in the mail. or, you can retrieve them in seattle.
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an unsupported single-push traverse of the boundary: http://www.internationalboundarycommission.org/index-eng.html
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great story. thanks.
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if you haven't found these already...
granite peak tr:
nwmj entry (page 5):
http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/07/071_Shorts5.html
dan and various partners have been doing routes on the nearby towers over the last couple summers. sorry, i don't have more detailed info than that.
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mildly hyperbolic but atrocilicious climbing nonetheless. those are grimaces, not smiles.
for the record, we took a bolt kit with about ten 1/4"ers. it was dead weight "courage in the bottom of the rucksack". the existing bolt looked much newer than 1980's but did have a smc hanger. maybe a canadian attempt?
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stanton and cappellini did a fair amount of adventure climbing in that area post-fire. dan and i added a good route up what he called "the coyote" (because you can look over at the rabbit ears) that included an improbably moderate pitch up a spectacular arete near the top. i think the coyote might be the last major tower on the ridge above big dome but am unsure without a photo.
lots of potential up there. thanks for the tr.
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thanks for the info, sarge. i vaguely recall retrosaurus (an okanagon native, so to speak, and former poster) mentioning it to me. i figured there must be a lot of private land up there but thought i would troll for some info nonetheless.
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i advocate "curb stomping" though it might be less politically correct.
your abilities (and luck) take precedent over your pro.
good luck.
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wonderful.
there is supposedly some granite tower climbing back there (rock 'n road hearsay).....see any? gotta be a little more solid than castle crags being farther from the contact?
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rumor is there is a bit of climbing there. anyone okanagan locals or others have some info they would like to share with the class? thanks.
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thanks for the info, bob. climbing isn't safe and anyone who thinks so is a dumbfuck. got any stories about climbing grass in poland? seriously, i'm intrigued.
regarding the supremacy of "american made": smc and leeper don't get off easily. and the aluminum clip'emeveryfuckingtime pop-top hangers?
the odds are against you, now and in your limited future.
Expanding North Cascades NP
in Access Issues
Posted
take your ad hominem attack to spray.