rat
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Posts posted by rat
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you professionals are so needy:
dave cheesmond's north twin crack gloves.
photo by barry blanchard during this insignificant little jaunt http://www.barryblanchard.ca/northtwin
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send me a pm with a description of the shoes and i will drop them in the mail. or, you can retrieve them in seattle.
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an unsupported single-push traverse of the boundary: http://www.internationalboundarycommission.org/index-eng.html
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great story. thanks.
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if you haven't found these already...
granite peak tr:
nwmj entry (page 5):
http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/07/071_Shorts5.html
dan and various partners have been doing routes on the nearby towers over the last couple summers. sorry, i don't have more detailed info than that.
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mildly hyperbolic but atrocilicious climbing nonetheless. those are grimaces, not smiles.
for the record, we took a bolt kit with about ten 1/4"ers. it was dead weight "courage in the bottom of the rucksack". the existing bolt looked much newer than 1980's but did have a smc hanger. maybe a canadian attempt?
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stanton and cappellini did a fair amount of adventure climbing in that area post-fire. dan and i added a good route up what he called "the coyote" (because you can look over at the rabbit ears) that included an improbably moderate pitch up a spectacular arete near the top. i think the coyote might be the last major tower on the ridge above big dome but am unsure without a photo.
lots of potential up there. thanks for the tr.
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thanks for the info, sarge. i vaguely recall retrosaurus (an okanagon native, so to speak, and former poster) mentioning it to me. i figured there must be a lot of private land up there but thought i would troll for some info nonetheless.
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i advocate "curb stomping" though it might be less politically correct.
your abilities (and luck) take precedent over your pro.
good luck.
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wonderful.
there is supposedly some granite tower climbing back there (rock 'n road hearsay).....see any? gotta be a little more solid than castle crags being farther from the contact?
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rumor is there is a bit of climbing there. anyone okanagan locals or others have some info they would like to share with the class? thanks.
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thanks for the info, bob. climbing isn't safe and anyone who thinks so is a dumbfuck. got any stories about climbing grass in poland? seriously, i'm intrigued.
regarding the supremacy of "american made": smc and leeper don't get off easily. and the aluminum clip'emeveryfuckingtime pop-top hangers?
the odds are against you, now and in your limited future.
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muy pinche bueno.
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a few parking options:
1. 1-2 spots are usually plowed out on the north side of the hwy near the gun tower. this is quite a ways east of the henry creek road. expect to get plowed in if it is snowing.
2. traveling westbound on hwy 2, there is an easy-to-miss road on the north side just west of the tunnel itself. this road is plowed and used by the rr for access to the east portal. while i never had any problems parking there the situation may have changed.
3. nordic center as the last option.
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not to put too positive a spin on it....
east face of the mighty toof on 12/5:
http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=26357.0
john's comment regarding source lake in late november:
i imagine you could find something to climb using varying amounts of imagination, wallowing and care.
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does anyone have first hand info they would like to share regarding current skiing conditions in the trinity alps (canyon creek, grizzly lake and/or surrounding peaks)?
thanks.
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marko employing impeccable leashless style on what else but da toof.
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the route has some good climbing but i would recommend jumping on it soon. the route still harbors some semi-loose blocks and dirt/lichen. without traffic, the witch doctor will quickly reclaim it.
the fresh rock scar is a shortly left of the third pitch anchor. all the rap stations survived. i cleaned the offensive baubles near your rap gear. lunger has your gear and will contact you soon.
thanks for your efforts dave, et al.
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an appropriately hyperbolic donkey douche description of a classic northwest pile. definitely a fine day of immersion.
we were a little over 6hr on the route itself so grade III in my bickering opinion. probably IV if you pitch some of it out and/or directly climb the 2 steps we easily skirted due to concerns about time and forecasted incoming wx.
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it was the south face. my mistake. the route we climbed started with a left trending crack from the base of the major rib in the center-right of your photo.
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nice.
cashmere also has little-known technical route up the central rib of the east south face (fa gordon briody and partner). marko and i repeated it recently and found 2 pitches of 5.9ish crack climbing (perhaps easier to the right, lots of variations possible) leading from the lowest point of the face to the crest of the rib. a couple long simul-sections of 4th-low 5th then lead almost directly to the summit. it has suprisingly good rock but will probably never become popular.
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much easier to approach from a col between the blockhouse and the hook -- no raps, minimal sketch.
[TR] West Witches Tit - West Ridge "No Rest For the Wicked" (FA) 5/28/2014
in Alaska
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that looks swell. nice jorb.