rat
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Posts posted by rat
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anadromous species, yes. resident (and some interloper) species, no. help them out and go kill a few bullheads other than me.
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pulling culverts and re-contouring the road prisms helps minimize future blow-outs and can open up fish habitat on roads that will not be used in the near future. it's sometimes stupid they have to essentially re-open the road to get to the neglected culverts but most often it's money well spent.
thanks for the route maintenance and approach update.
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i think peter and i climbed more along the line of the north buttress to where it appears to intersect the kearney route at the ledge (about 2/3 height) then somewhere between the north butt and north face to the top. quite a bit of 4th class at bottom and top. lots easier to approach via terror creek earlier in the season....maybe they were concerned about the mcmillan glacier being broken up or just wanted to get acquainted with some new brush. more kearney loot for the next party....
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1. short rap from large ponderosa pine to bolts at the top of rotc.
2. 30m rap to bolts on ledge at base of rotc.
3. 30m to vw ledge.
walking/scrambling off to climbers' left from the top is not too bad but, as was mentioned elsewhere, has deteriorated a bit since the '94 fire.
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interesting terrain and cool photos. trading your machete for a roto-hammer will probably yield the same results.
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i suspect there are quite a few people who post or lurk here that would enjoy this route and probably could do it in a very long day rt from camp. difficulties are concentrated in the middle third. the remainder has climbing up to 5.8 or so. we bivvied in the 3rd class terrain near the snowpatch shown on john roper's photo. this would just be a standard route in the canadian rockies.
thanks to john roper and john scurlock for the photos.
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so that bolt at your bivvy must be the button head you mentioned since you rapped from it. we didn't find any wad of tat lying around.
glad to hear this was a joke: "The small amounts of aid we all freed by the leader or the 2nd, but due to the poor pro and funky placements, we felt it a bit harder than A1, but a bit easier than A2."
rock on.
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piddling historical question:
1. mike and erik mention passing a button head contraction bolt near a tree with a sling on the first third of the route. we did not see this because we were off to the right, but i did pass an old 1" sling on a tree and old pin-equipped rap station that i don't think they placed (they were using skinny red webbing). these were enroute to what i suspect was the bivvy site that they used below the crux portion (photo labeled "is it gonna go" in mike's cc.com tr: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/495850/fpart/1 ). there is a 1/4", maybe 5/16", expansion bolt at this tree-less bivvy site (no longer backed up with a kb, thanks) from which they eventually rapped. no mention of this in the tr. seems like this was the logical high point of the 1958 attempt (as per the nwmj: http://www.mountaineers.org/NWMJ/06/061_Mox.html ) but the bolt and lower rap anchor looked newer. anyone else out there have a story to tell about moxie?
unsuprisingly after 3 years, we didn't see the joker. we were bivvied slightly left at that point.
the real prize is the central east face. the far left side is a rotting overhanging pile.
luckily for me, eric's ability to slum exceeds his vocabulary.
the approach, when dry that is, is not half as bad as detailed in mike's tr.
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what about the unclimbed e face of concord tower. anybody ever venture past minuteman?
doug klewin & mike martin, late 1980's, A3+ish.
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my opinion is grade inflation in school and on the rocks is rampant. on the few routes i've helped climb, i try to adhere to index/midnight grades for cracks and older dogtown/der/peshastin grades for slab/face. contrive-o-meter ratings can be a help.
filthyhank would have had to traverse quite a ways on mt. alberta to find a 4th class gully.
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cool. just a bit of spray on a serious topic. i'll stop.
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no shit. you'll get no more respect there than you will here.
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Ben, did you guys approach up the ridge past pearly gates, or straight up the gullett to the base? This spring we found that ridge to be VASTLY foreshortened and got spanked.
straight up from the vicinity of dog dome....patches of sea-of-no-fun but not bad. shrink wrap cat is about 5 pitches up to .9+ or .10-. pitch 2 had some rambling. pitches 3-4 were in a right facing corner and pitch 5 was excellent finger/hand cracks. not sure how it compares with pipe dreams.
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we bypassed it. it looked nice but sort of contrived. i'll leave the route finding to you. have fun.
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more adventurous than gato negro even with offwhite's topo....more granola and lichen than we were expecting....engaging climbing on the harder pitches....head colds and lack of enthusiasm had us bypassing the last pitch (5.11-) on the tower with an easy traverse left and 5.8-5.9 pitch directly to the notch....perhaps that bypassed pitch was the "stellar" that "eclipsed" the other pitches?....i think we belayed about 7 pitches total...ice axes were useful on the descent off the backside....appears you may be able to descend the whine spire gully....a worthwhile route that could use more traffic.
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do yourself a favor next time and start up the trail to yellow jacket tower (east side of hook cr.). the west face of the blockhouse and south face of the mole are best approached from hook creek. rat creek is longer, brushier and has more jackstrawed trees.
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i was working on cultus mountain last week and saw a suitably large choss pile in the lake cavanaugh area. i think it might be called bald mountain. walker valley is also supposed to have some choss climbing potential.
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if you're set on trying it, using a vertical bandsaw might be your best bet if you can clamp the puppies down well enough. i still think you should think about trading them for the sizes you want. old snargs and warthogs work pretty well in frozen vegetated cracks too.
good luck.
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hey tough guy,
there is no good alternative to a sawed-off shotgun. reread the original post and my page 1 drivelling response. if you take him at his word, his idea is a waste of time at best.
everyone jumped to the conclusion he wants to shotgun them. if so, just fucking saw the goddamn things off with a hacksaw. you guys can't do anything manually anymore, and that includes yanking your puds.
now stfu.
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no way to win that one unless you tally missing appendages of various sorts.
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"I recently inherited a box of Black Diamond angle pitons in the full size range. The larger angles are pretty big, heavy, and seem redundant given the existence of nuts and cams in the same size. I wondered about cutting off some of the material so they'd fit in smaller cracks,....."
forgive me if my reading comprehension is poor but.....
you have an assortment from probably 1/2" babies to regular 2" angles and you want to cut the larger ones down to fit "smaller cracks"? this sounds like you don't want to make sawed-off "shotguns" for bottoming pin scars but actually want to shave material off the long axes of the pins. if that's the case, it sounds like a pain in the ass and you might be better off selling/trading the ones you don't feel you will use.
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".....not being more aware of what the temps were doing up there."
http://nimbo.wrh.noaa.gov/mso/newrgl.php
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access to omak crack is closed.
not mentioned in the leavenworth area:
lazyboy
royal flush (boulder problem)
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if you're planning on entering chile, the customs agents will confiscate all meat, dairy, vegetable and fruit (including dried items). they are thorough.
no chilean reciprocity fee is charged if entering by bus.
[TR] Static Point - Lost Charms 10/26/2008
in North Cascades
Posted
evidently i was not clear enough when responding to drep's comment about fish barriers. i agreed that, yes, the dam is a barrier to anadromous fish but resident non-t/e fish exist in the lake. rainbow and cutthroat can spawn in streams feeding the lake.
drink, spew, fight.