Beck

Jman that ROCKS! dude. Thanks. new eppisode shortly...

Damn! That's a bummer, maybe the Fall Ropeup will be at Tumwater CG

What's the best way in to LaBohn gap? is it Necklace valley or Dutch Miller trail from Snoq?

For you guys that have been up there already, is there any unburnt bouldering/climbing in the immediate vincinity of Bridge Creek?

Actually, the rep's name is Rachel and my nose is surgically implanted about three inches in front of her ass, dudes! Relly, go try one one. You'll lust after it like a castaway for the Swedish Bikini Team

Well, check out "Teddy R. in the danger Zone" for questions about teddy's and my "protection " issues. On Scholler fabrics, this shit rocks! I disagree about the durability issue on this fabric, it's a real brush buster fabric. I've got various incantaions of Scholler in pants from TNF, Moonstone, Bertram Mann and an MEC coat and can say this shit is tough as nails and hella comfortable. You can buy pants for as little as 25 dollars if you sniff around for the deals. I have some of the Metolius winter weight pants like yours, pen, double fabric seat and reinforced knees. they are quite unlike Shoeller fabric. Scholler really comes into it's own in the Alpine environment and snow cold conditions. I use this stuff all winter long on ski patrol at Mount Rainier and only had to pull the shell on twice- It is much more wind resistant and snow shedding than any pile, velour, or speciality fabric out there. In addition, you stay very dry and comfortable, no feeling like a sweaty armpit at the steam room. Usually I would come down off the mountain and would be completely dry after a hard day of patrolling, everyone else would be wet on the insides of their shells and getting chilled while I relaxed in total dry comfort. I just picked up a new Patagonia jacket called the Dimension that is Scholler on steroids, gorilla skin tough shit. You can buy a Scholler type wool blend stretch woven available at Seattle Fabrics, 20 bucks a yard, you could sew a coat for 80 bucks and time.

Dudes and dudettes, the new soft shell Dimension jacket is THE BOMB! I just bought one- this shit is Scholler Dryskin on steroids! We're talking gorilla skin tough !@#@#! it is friggin unbelievable- buy yours now, a lot of times the really good stuff dissapears after one season, like the Marmot Forraker jacket- made entirely out of the abrasion patch cloth, lasted one season as a product because they didn't sell the target numbers. The Patagonia Dimension jacket, ultra burly 7oz fabric double strength stretch woven with helmet friendly hood, long tail, drawstring waist, it will change the way you look at jackets. BUY NOW!

Look to the master himself, Beckey, for fine examples of route candy made of sacharine dreams- "Some exposed scrambling" "destined to become a classic" "moderately loose rock" "8 hours" I believe beta to be only a guideline to help you decide, not the map you choose to get to the top.

We're going down to Daniel/Hinman caps this weekend if you want to come along and check it out. Check out Kololo Peaks region for persistant snow, Wapata Icefields in Canada but I don't know any climbing - best check with the canooks on that one.

That bitch was STIFFLER"S MOTHER? Man, good thing Teddy Ruxpin wasn't around or she would have had an amorous ursine suitor on her tail all night long!

... Teddy drops the snafflehound when he finally notices my presence on the ledge. I'm pissed and sore so I scrape some verglas out of a crack and nurse my nips with it as Teddy leads the next pitch. He's climbing around a corner an a minor buttress and calling out "slack.More slack" as he climbs out of sight. I'm feeding him a bunch of line and the next thing you know he's traversing wildly on a ledge 80 feet above, in fast pursuit of the snafflehound he was just friggin a few minutes ago. She's got this look of sheer terror with Teddy fast on her tail. It seems she had climbed HIGHER on the rock to escape her amorous suitor and Teddy must've spotted her on the other side of the buttress. I notice he's failed to place any protection on the traverse when all of a sudden Teddy's paw slips off the ledge and he takes a HUGE ripper and nearly pulls me off the belay ledge, anchors,cordelette and all- the whole enchilada. He's lucky I'm still his climbing bitch...

Talked to Artie, the matronly campground host at eight mile CG on the phone today. I'm going to pay her the lucre for Bridge Creek CG on Saturday and scope the site proper post inferno. So,IT'S A GO FOR THE FALL ROPEUP SEPT 28-29-30!!!! Be there or be bummed!

MSR gave me a set of Blacklites last year, I don't think the coating is very durable but you can burn noodles to the bottom and cleanup with a scrap of TP- A reservation I have on using the Ti pots is a lot of this Ti metal we're seeing in outdoor gear is surplus Russian Ti shit that gets melted down, I'd be worried about the alloy content of the Titanium cause you're not getting JUST Titanium, I wouldn't want to be drinking or cooking in a pot made of Cesium or Stronium. Maybe it's an unrealistic fear, I don't know. Expensonium,though, that's a different alloy and sees to invade most climbing gear, you see it it clothing now, too. I reccomend sticking with the aluminium pots, they say it doesn't cause alzihimer's now and the British Bulldog pots are the absolute best and most pack friendly shape out there, buy Bulldogs if you can get them!

Dru, you coming to Bellingham next Friday for some Elsinores and a round of BEERHUNTER! , then a quick rasher of back bacon in the AM before some climbing stateside?

...|Teddy's reply stunned me so badly I drop the stitch plate and nearly fall off the belay ledge! "Wow, Teddy, that never occurred to me! I'll look into it when we get back to town." Teddy continued to climb out of sight. "Teddy, ten feet!" Teddy stops pulling rope thru the sticht, then hollers down a minute later. "Belay On!" "Climbing." I clean the route as I climb up to him and grab the rest of the rack and we switch leads. The next couple pitches go well, till on one pitch I'm noticing I've got a lot of rope slack. "Teddy. Up Rope, dude. you're giving me a big whip factor if I peel." I get no response and no change in the rope. "Teddy. Up Rope!" I holler once more. No response other than some muffled groans from above. Well, needless to say, I took a thirty foot fall and popped a couple chocks out of the rock until the rope FINALLY goes taut. There's no longer second than the one you spend waiting for the rope to catch you, isn't there? Well, my helmet took most of the hit so I was okay but I took a huge hit in my Kevlar Falsies that tweaked my nips and chafed them raw from all the abrasion. Boy did that smart, and I was pissed. I climb furiously back up to Teddy. To top it all off, when I reach the belay ledge and mantleshelf onto it I see Teddy's got this snafflehound and he's BUGGERING her like the salesman in the barn with the farmer's daughter! He's got this huge grin and half closed eyes in such a state of sexual frenzy. The snafflehound had this expression of half terror, half pleasure as he's doing her from behind. The sight left me with a strange tingling in my nether regions...

writing it as I go along! Just some typical stream of conciousness writing a la Burroughs or Kerouac,albiet poorer.

... Well, dwayner, at least your were able to stomach a beer this morning! I woke up with a prehangover drunk and found my date had left and I was stuck with Teddy Ruxpin! Then I spent part of my bike commute this morning dry heaving into some bushes in a vain attempt to shake off last night's TRULY ENJOYABLE Pub Club. I'm glad to see such stellar examples of vertically challenged types showing up. You go, Holly Climber! Rightous trip report, Ehmmic! All you guys cluster around,EddieE and MattP, i could see the wheels burning skid marks on the existential fabric of life, keep living large!Dwayner, we've got to stop meeting like this! just kidding! And to all the rest of you, grand to spend an evening in such fine company. As for my little run in with the tatooed medusa I thought was my friend, she obviously has some issues to go bitch slapping me like that- only in the bedroom, please! Once again , thanks to all, it wouldn't be as much fun without you! [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 08-29-2001).]

Hey boys and girls, last weekend I sat looking over at the snowcaps on Daniel and Hinman and they look SWEET! Me and a buddy had a plan to trek all the way into the Kololo Peaks for a three day ski trip over Labor Day, We'll be going to ski Hinman and Daniel instead. Looking to share the fun with anyone who wants to go, looks like a helmet/axe/harness/prussiks/fluke or picket only type of trip, please feel free to free heel this weekend and have a BLAST! We're heavy drinkers and chain smokers, so any pace will be fine(just kidding)or we're thinking of hiring some inner city kids as porters so we can bring more beer. Shuss loose, Beck

...just got off the phone with "Gus" and he tells me, with complete confidence, that the campgrounds in Icicle Creek Canyon will be reopening this weekend. So, with that in mind, I return once again to Lworth this weekend to bribe the campground host (she's down at 8 Mile not Bridge so no nosy neighbors!) with smoked salmon and pay for the Bridge Creek group site. This has been impossible the last two weeks so please bear with me on the uncertainity on location of Fall Megafest, it will be resolved soon.

Worked saturday, went sunday with an Aussie buddy of mine to mess around on Nason Ridge. Thought we'd get some nice scramble variety on a rock called appropriately, Rock Mountain, but there was only some nice scrambling on the ridge itself. Nice long training , 12+miles 4000 vert to 6800 ft and great views, yelled at mother nature, then went down to Leavenworth for free pool and flirting with the local ladies.

I wear Outdoor Research mukkluks with Double boot liners(telemark too!) or wool socks, great for plunging thru knee deep snow on the way to the evacuation hole- fold up to virtually nothing, and no more snow cold ankles from bootie/pant gap. I reiterate my recommendation of two foam pads with your clothes layered between as the single most important thing you can do to insulate from the snow.

sean, I'll come early and run beer sprints with you as I close up shop. Beck

KOHO Radio in Lworth said Bridge Creek Campground held, no damage. "Bud" in the hot seat of command central at Thousand Trails said the Campgrounds on Icicle are reopening this weekend. I think the USFS is being guardedly pessimistic re: reopening canyon, but it sounds like they gave 1000 trails the go ahead, i will be checking them out Saturday enroute to a trip on Mount Hinman.

hear ye, hear ye, barring consensus dissent, the next meeting of the Cascade Climbers "We're Drinking Now" Pub Club is hearby called for 5:30 on tomorrow, Tuesday, Aug 28 downtown Seattle at the historical Pike Place Bar and Grill overlooking the Pike Place Market clock. Buck fifty drafts of Budwiser from 4 to 7P.M. for all us cheap farts out there, easy to find in downtown Seattle. 1507 1st Ave right at the main enterance of the Pike Place Market at First and Pike. I-5 north or south, take Stewart St (from S) or Union St. (from N) downtown exits, head W from appox 7th ave to 1st Ave. Find free parking on street somewhere near the Market, Look for the Pike Place Bar and Grill right at the corner of First and Pike just behind Pike Place Flowers. Next week I hope someone in Bham, Everret or T- town for next weeks Pub Club, I know my friend Garomer can probably make a Bellingham meet Tues the 18th if that interests our Canook/ North brethren out here.

Why? Coz "We're Drinkin' Now!" to any CC Brethren that made it to the Post Office Tavern, I pulled a typical climer thing, got out of the woods WAY LATE so got to Lworth at eight not six, to generally terrorize the locals at free pool and flirt with their women! Good times had by me and my Aussie mate taking care of showing the more sedentary members of the population that we mountain types RULE THE ROOST in joyous ribaldry and blatant sex appeal!