Beck

Man doesn't create beauty he channels it from creation itself. To all the literary folks who read this stuff, I must retract my earlier statements about Duchamp- he WAS the cofounder of the dadaist movement along with Alfred Jarry, whose book "The adventures of Doctor Faustaroll, pataphysician" is a very enjoyable piece of fiction, ranks higher than his play "Ubu Roi" IMO. I was confusing Duchamp with Breton and Crevel, also Appolinaire as I believe he compiled the great surrealist text "investigating sex"

Sorry about the incorrect fire beta, I thought it was Leavenworth fire was the lazy fire tending one, not thirty mile, so I apologize. Oh yeah, I'm still concerned about guys in BDUs and an army truck being the most probable suspects right now for bolt chopping at the Icicle crags, just would like to find out WHASSUP with that. [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 09-26-2001).]

I'll keep Duchamp out of the Alfred Jarry school of "King Turd" as he was much more derisive and witty, founded the ??? salon with Rene Daumal, Didn't he consolidate "investigating sex"? Dada was much less ...

Bringing in the french surrealists, eh, Dru? I believe the salon would consider these all legitimate forms of artistic expression, art is centrist expression which is effective to self first, secondary to others...if they get it, so much the better!

VERY interesting, Tim... We (collectively as climbers) need to get to the bottom of this one or some dipweeds are going to continue the raping of climbers crags throughout the canyon...

A bit away from that part of the state, but there's a field of house size boulders needing flash time in the high meadow on the approach to Fortress/Chiwawa up valley from Lk Wenatchee- As to earlier bouldering being done, suppose it could have happened as practice, but the "sport" of "bouldering" caught on only in last twenty years, so I figure it certainly wasn't documented by the Beckey clan- I don't believe he mentions it at all in the CAGs, let me know if I'm mistaken.

I think Viktor had good beta on the miscreants- a__wipes who wear camo BDU's and drive around in an Army truck- somebody should contact the Nast'l Guard and see if any "reservists" were on "detail" two weekends ago- It could also be paramilitary dipweeds who think climbers are a pock on the Icicle Creek Canyon, albeit i think the person that left the fire burning that started this year's fires was some backwoods hunter dimbulb they probably used to buy drinks for at the Old Post Office-

Sean, I don't know how accurate a RSVP is going to be for this thing, we've got this wingding posted out there in other venues, in the papers (some of them!) so, hey, 200 pounds of bisquick! (Just kidding) Here's a list of people that either said they were bringing stuff or just showing up- Jon (I don't know if Tim's making it) Beck Hikerwa Mattp Ehmmic Chris_W Hairball Erik Mike Reddig Climbing4 fun Dr Jay Will Strickland (needs a ride) Rafahel h Jules Dynamite Cpt Caveman 009 David Parker Erik N Rstewbone Lisa and some other CC.com posters, too and if it's just us at a group site, partying hardy and climbing hard, who's loss is it? Not ours!

Who's busting bolts off top rope problems in the Icicle? If they think they are climbers, they've got some growing up to do.

Regarding water purification, the MSR mini or their larger filter work very well and very tough, but you all might want to buy a MIOX disenfectant pen when they come onto the market next year. Only as big as a magic marker, brews up the same mix used in municipal water treatment plants, refill with salt tabs and camera batteries. It's being developed for use by US military, I'm positive climbers could figure out how to use it! I tested it earlier this spring and this product ROCKS! totally Beckproof! You can read a little blurb about it in last month's Outside magazine.

I think Carolyn could beat you in the Beer chug, cavey, better watch out! Mike, I don't think i can make it, I've got a date with the woman that's helping defend Ahmed Ressam.

Here's a thread for people who want to come to the Ropeup but don't have a ride- Campground is ours after 12 noon Friday and there will be some unscheduled activities for Friday, the main day is Saturday, some things happening Sunday AM so I hope those of you who don't have rides and want to go can connect up with some drivers. I'm leaving 9AM Friday.

Hey, everyone, the Fall Ropeup is GOOD TO GO. Bribed the 1000 trails hostess and her husband with some smoked salmon this weekend. Should keep us on their good side (to start) There will be fire restrictions next weekend, so I am making a call for anyone with Coleman lanterns, battery lamps, propane, etc. to bring those along, no need for the firewood as well. There will still be free camping at the group site although it will be first come, first served. There are also going to be trail and climbing restrictions in the immediate area, please respect these, as the post-fire environment is very fragile- maps will be available showing open/ closed areas. I hope lots of you can make it, We'll be having a blast!

7mm prussik. Very simple for top roping. Not hands free.

I think you're supposed to either 1) short rope the girl to the top, 2) stop right there, feed her some valium and massage her feet with soothing salve until she feels better 3) camp in the wilderness in some cranny no ranger will find you and break out the coconut oil or 4)fireman carry her to the top. Assuming she WAS a SHE, Dru!

Was just up in the canyon this last weekend as well, looking to develop a tick list for this next weekend's climbing fest and discovered the same - some MORONS chopped bolts off top rope belay anchors on lots of rock, even up to clamshell cave where two hangers were chopped off the 20' 5.11 boulder at the base off clamshell's right side- If these people consider themselves climbers, they are sorely deluding themselves.

Thanks, Jon, I just needed to get it off my chest. Need more room for my kevlar falsies.

...Ice and hail pelt my helmet as my eyes search upward for any sign of Teddy. I can just make him out, climbing furiously, and I see him make toe entry step into the broken aretes that form the summit block. I cry out to him, to no avail. "Teddy, oh, Teddy, I was administering first aid! If you were hypothermic I'd have to spoon with you in a sleeping bag to rewarm!" Perverted images of me and Teddy in a high alpine 69 gave me a sudden rush, but trying to communicate with Teddy just then was like trying to reach Helen Keller on the telephone The storm ceases as suddenly as it began and the clouds broke to skies of azure blue. I set up a prussik self belay and begin reclimbing as Teddy free solos the last 80 feet and summits. As I begin body jamming amongst the summit pillars Teddy raps down to my level. I'm half expecting him to sock me good or give me a chewing out. I'm as nervous as a doghandler at the Westchester Kennel Club. Imagine my suprise when he stops mid-rappel, pendeulum steps his way over to me and plants a huge kiss smack dab om my mouth! I nearly lose my stance, what with my legs buckling and my heart pitter-pattering. "Teddy, Im so..so... flattered!" I exclaim. "Oh my goodnes, I'm quivering with excitement!" Teddy may have been out to break my heart, though. Without another word he gives me a huge grin and a wink, then zips off down his rapline out off sight below. I brace for a couple minutes to allow the tingling sensations to leave my crotch and climb to the summit. When I top out I find a Hershey's kiss and a note. My heart leapt and a tear rolled off my cheek as I read the few words awkwardly scrawled on the back of a scrap of a topo. It read: Someday I want to spoon with you on a summit without a care in the world. LOVE, Teddy. My gosh, I swooned like a housewife running into Tom Jones at the post office and nearly fell off the summit. I hastily set up for the rappel but never saw Teddy for the remainder of the trip. That bastard left me heartbroken and stranded at the trailhead, but I'll still be his climbing bitch any time. I think I love you, Teddy Ruxpin! THE END (finally!)

Nick, I checked with my contacts and they say Team Rux will supply all the gardenia-scented coconut oil you'll need! I hear it helps with performance...

Contact the American Alpine Club, I'll bet they've got a list of sponsors for youth driven expeditions. As with Texplorers post, keep in mind that anyone willing to sponsor a team expedition, they are going to want a first ascent (as in "first teenage winter ascent of Cassin ridge") or an expedition with environmental or educational scope. If you want free gear to just go have a dirtbag summer, it probably ain't gonna happen.

...The storm continues to drop hail and rain as I rappel quickly down to Teddy. As I approach I can see him slobbering and jerking around on the end of his rope like a spazz weightlifter jacked on steroids. I can see his eyes rolled back under the lids and he's muttering, "Teddy need Mommy" over and over. It's tough to keep the tears back as I break out the first aid kit and my Pocketrocket. The stove. "Teddy, Teddy, it's okay, your Momm's here. Let's get you all warmed up and fluffed out and everything'll be okay." I try to sooth him by rubbing his furry brow, then fire up the stove in an attempt to dry Teddy out. The drying proccess is going pretty good until I have to dry out his under regions. I've been working him over the stove, back and forth, keeping him far enough away from the flame I don't singe him. When I tip his ass towards me to work on his rear...man, it was like Larry Flynt having lunch with Gypsy Rose Lee... I got distracted and singed his ass hairs but good! I break out the coconut oil and start massaging his backside in a vain attempt to cover up the damage I've done to his fur, but the burning hair smell revives Teddy from his delirium right qiuck. " Wha.. what the h___ you doing back there? Are you some kinda perv, dude? Get your mitts off me!" "Bu..bu..but Teddy, I was just trying to get you all oiled up to protect against the rain!" I manage to stammer out but Teddy doesn't buy it. "Bu..but nothing, dude, you were MASSAGING MY ASS" he yelps out and takes off like a bolt of lighting to the ledge. "Teddy, oh, Teddy, I was just trying to help!" escapes my lips but is lost in the howl of the storm...

Gobs and Gobs of seamseal, inside and out makes it tight as a drum...what do you think of the Betamid's wind handling performance, goatboy? I haven't yet had to string out guylines from the two peak guyloops but probably will have to this winter..

Thanks, sean- I heard from WHISPERS some of our fellow Cascade Climbers were fomenting an idea for a Pub Club out in Ballard, but no one posted anything. nada. are we not climbers? Do we not drink?

Dudes, BD makes a killer new tent that will keep you very happy in everthing EXCEPT hurricanes above treeline and that is the new Black Diamond Betamid- 2.2 pounds light sleeps two and gear, sets up on trekking poles and is very wind stable- 99 bucks! The quality of the stiching and fabric is very high. I had a Bibler I tent I used for years until it just kind of wore out, my current bivy is a Bibler and I've not had any problems with that either- I wonder if BD moved Bibler's production line to China in the last couple of years? Or if it's hard to find good seamstresses in Salt Lake City's economy right now? I guess McDonald's has the same problem, finding enough people to work for low wages- It's a problem big enough that our government's trying to signifantly reduce immigration and work standards for Mexicans- imagine that!

Hear Ye, Hear Ye, barring consensus dissent, tonight's Pub Club will convene at Goldie's Tavern, 2121 N. 45th St. in wallingford in Seattle 6:30-??? Directions to Goldie's from I-5 N or S take the 45th Street exit, turn to the west on 45th, go about 8-10 blocke, Goldie's on South side of street, kitty corner from a Taco Time. Hope to see you all there!