RStewbone

Oh and did I mention my typing. It doesn't make a damn bit of difference how well I can type either.When Truman Capote heard that Jack Kerouac wrote On The Road in three weeks he said "That's not writing, It's typing." But we know that history would prove otherwise. You see the interesting paralell.At least I think it was Capote. O. K. I need to research my quotes and improve my typing but since neither one is attached to my ego we can make fun and it's o.k.. It should be the same with climbing and the impersonal candor of written thoughts. They do sound meaner than they may be intended to sound. For instance "That's only because your a chickenshit...". See how mean that sounded. It's because you couldn't see me laughing when I said it.

Wil, This is all so warm and fuzzy.Looks like like I'm here a little late. Sorry we got rained out at Smith but it's time we got something out on the table. When you go to meet your maker or face the universal void it won't make a damn bit of difference how hard you climbed or in what style. The difference will be how many people you helped along the way. How many times you did the right thing when you could have fucked somebody. When you waited your turn instead of merging late(You're not a late merger are you? They are the real assholes.) And so on. Don't ever feel bad about what we climb. There is no failure only new resolve and reason to persevere. That's why climbing is better than real life. And let's not self-deprocate re; the oil cans. I think I know where your coming from. Next time I'll come to Wa. Di pointed out that a few years ago we would return from Smith wallowing in regret because we felt like we hadn't done enough or we didn't lead anything new or we didn't impress ourselves in some regard or whatever. We had to get over it and realize as someone pointed out ealier that chillin' with friends and enjoying the outdoors and lack of chaos is the whole point of it and not what you can come back and say you did. Sure I spray a little too but I realize it is to impress or else I wouldn't tell anybody. This site is cool and these guys seem allright. I'll send you an email.Robb.

I was in the area recently and it looks as if the routes are suffering from a serious lack of snow as compared to other years. Some have melted away and may be more tedious/dangerous than usual for this time of year. Maybe 2 months ahead of last year. Just a heads up. Everything Mattp says is right on. The south is closer to broken top so those two could be combined. The n.w.ridge on broken top may be a good choice if your nervous about the north. It is easy enough that many solo it but it does not seem like a dog route. Wherever you go you will love the scenery and easy approaches and you have 5 mountains(minimum) in your face. Have fun.

I guess you type so good you had to do it twice.

Dru I'll ignore the spelling although you should be aware that that is the english spelling as opposed to the scotch with ew like "stew". I guess it makes a difference if your name is Stewart or your from there. Stewbone

Looks like you'll just have to climb with me but you should try and bring a girl this time.(Is this what you mean by fucking with you?sorry could'nt resist but I know what you mean that's why I spend most of my time hidden so as not to be f'd with by all these worlds greatest climbers and shit.See it's like those pretentious little twits that began there spraythe second they walked up. We should have made them wait their turn badmouthing smith like that and inferring we were so slow that we must have stopped for lunch was too much. Shame on you for kissing their tight little butts. Dingbat forgot her belay device-Iknow thats why the first rap took 'em an hour-couldn't remember the 'biner brake.And flaking out theirbrand new rope.Assholes are not gender specific in this deal.might even get some smart response to this.

Wil. What the hell are you doing in this spray section? Don't you know that it's nothing but a giant bucket of sleaze. Remember when we used to spend our money in 1 dollar bills at the type of bar that made portland famous. It's the same.I'm not ascared of nothing but the fucking chupacabra man.

I was on the north last august twice. First on the s.e. ridge with a large group(12 people if you can believe that).W e got 1 guy across the snow traverse and decided this large and slow group would not have a chance back across the snow before it was in full sun and we callled back the poor guy who put pickets across the traverse for the rest of this sorry group(probably the last club climb I'll ever do). 1 week later I returned with 3 strong partners and we did early morning couloir and climbed the headwall directly simulclimbing on 1 9mm. with no rock pro-yikes. We climbed the couloir unroped on semi soft snow and it is no lie that at least two of us were sketched.I was hoping to feel better on the rock but no such luck. The last two people on the rope were taking plenty of rocks pumice and dirt. I would never do the headwall directly again given the choice.The climbing was mid 5th. on the worst rock and 1 in our group who's plastics would not edge well actually fell twice and prusiked for 6 feet while we stressed out on top of the Glisan pinnacle. I still ponder the whatifs of that day. It took 13 hours car to car. I will do the route again but with some insight on the hazards.Take an alpine expert with you and expect some intensity. And about those books I have them both and I agree that Smoot's sucks.

I'm not sure who the best climber in wa. is but If Dwayner is already drinking malt liquoron sunday morning he gets my vote.