Jerome

Anyone been up there recently? I was wondering how far I'd have to hike my skis in. Thanks for any info! Jerome

Just saw this post after writing up the climb in a different thread. We didn't do it! We climbed the route clean on Saturday. I remember seeing one pin on the second pitch. Too bad it was nailed. Jerome

Enjoyed steep granite and practically flawless weather on the Green Drag-On. Good route! Harder and more interesting than Town Crier. I'd wanted that for a long time. Hilarity ensued on the descent. We missed the (most assuredly) obvious descent trail back to the upper wall base, ending up instead walking logging roads almost to Rieter Road. A kind pair gave us a ride back in their pickup. Jerome

Two years ago Headspace and I did this, beginning at Stuart Lake and exiting at Snow Lake trail. Our time was just under 9 hours. This was in August, I think, so there wasn't much snow. This really isn't terrible fast. We never ran, and I never really train. We carried Platypi type water packs, a filter, and some food. Making it to the top of Aasgard is probably the most physical part; we covered this in 2.5 hours. Lots of drudgery after that, although the prettiness makes up for it. Jerome

Most favourite item: 1 lb coffee, Starbucks, dark roast. Nothing beats coffee in the morning! Favourite foods: - peanut butter - bagels - cookies - oatmeal - assorted nuts Least favourite foods: - Powerbars, Cliff bars, anything resembling same. Favourite gear: - Randonee ski gear. Would've absolutely *hated* snowshoes. - Handwarmers. I don't have the world's best circulation, and these kept me going above a windy Denali Pass. Lease favourite gear: - Sleds. You will come to loathe even the merest mention of a sled. Best single thing to do: - Press on through piss-poor weather to the 14k camp. Unless the avi conditions are horrible, you're better off getting there as quickly as you can to set yourself up for a good weather window. Biggest thing I wish I had: - Booze. Waiting at KIA for a ride out is the perfect time to warm up for the West Rib Pub, and not being able to is really boring. Thankfully there was a floating fifth of Maker's Mark in Lisa's (Roderick, sister of Paul, owner of Talkeetna Air Taxi, the best) tent, enjoyed by a grateful eight. Best barter item: - Tossup between coffee, booze, and cigarettes. If there are any Russians on the mountain you'd be hard pressed to find better trade than with a carton of Marlboro's. We had lots of Russians, no cigs, thus no vodka. J

quote: Originally posted by KFox: Crowded on west ridge on Saturday? By my count (and I was on the ridge) there were only two parties. Same as on the East Ridge. It did, however, look like it was going to be crowded on sunday with a few parties camping in B-Basin. A Word to the Wise, Because the snow coulor is melted out you have to use the gullies to the left. DON"T GET IN THE GULLIES WITH ANYONE ABOVE YOU. My partner were on one of the last raps when a party above us launched a storm of rocks on us. It was scary and we were lucky we didn't get hit. In my opinion Unless you do it on a day with no crowds, ie. weekday, you're beter off waiting untill next year. -Kevin Big no shit there! I launched the rock. Figured there was no way in hell anyone below could've survived, particularly with the amount of smaller rocks that got picked up along the way. Worst 30 minutes I've ever had. Bloody dangerous. I was downclimbing; a rock the size of a big microwave pulled out just after I'd lowered off it. Looking up at it shaking and about to pop off I thought I could reach up and hold it in place; the more rational part of my brain jumped me ten feet right. My partner said it missed me by a foot. We neither one of us would've ever thought it would come out, and for what it's worth we've done a fair bit of loose crud. Kevin's dead right. Those gullies are horrid. Or at least, really close to horrid. Sorry again guys! Glad it missed everyone. Jerome

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: You suck! Come climbing in Veavengirth! Bolt so me cracks and and sketch and and rattle and and pop and and wake up and and hike hungover like me! Right.... Soon enough. In the meantime I'll relish this wee little tire I'm putting on and keep playing mule. To pop this back to front, anyone yet with ideas on Jefferson? Nasty? Scary? Should I Bosch the summit pinnacle, or just go straight to via ferrata? Jerome

I'm thinking of climbing Jefferson this weekend, 27th-28th. Has anyone done this recently or in this time frame? Any thoughts, pertinent advice, etc.? I'm primarily interested in the prefered way up the summit block, and which glacier (Jefferson Park/Whitewater) is generally better. Thanks! Jerome

quote: Originally posted by Dru: jerome likes to lean on his cheater stick while wearing spandex and talking to his stock broker on a cell phone about Britney Spears I wish I had a stockbroker! And there's nothing wrong with Ms. Spears. Cute, in an overmarketed way; I'd call her back! Spandex? That'd be downright scary. I'll do it. Jerome Jerome

Fun Smith moderates, in no particular order: Screaming Yellow Zonkers (10b) very good, well bolted Karate Crack (10a) you can sew it up, and it's a solid handcrack, so why not? Pioneer Rt., Monkey Face (6 A0) may not seem like an easy route, but really is! Wherever I May Roam (10a, really 9) generally uninspired climbing, but well bolted, in an interesting position, and an overall relaxing way to gain elevation Sky Ridge (8 R) unless it's been retrobolted, it is a bit of distance to the first bolt, but once you're there the climbing couldn't be in a better position Snibble Tower, E. Face (9 A1 R) scary sounding but not nearly that bad; all the loose and (not terribly) runout climbing is on easy terrain. The crux is quite protectable. Getting off is a bit of an adventure, but not bad. The loose rock seems to be working hard to deserve the title! Five Gallon Buckets (8) obviously! Nine Gallon Buckets (10a or 10c) first part (or pitch at 10a) isn't that exciting, but the second (10c) bit will keep your interest! There's a wierd sideways move with a bolt at your face, then easy but funky vertical finger-pockets to the top Stay away from Rope-de-Dope block. Rock is sharp, and usually crowded. Ignore the posers who've nothing nice to say about Smith! It's a fine place to climb; a worthwhile destination any day. You've got an (obviously) good selection of bolted routes to climb, some awesome cracks, and, although shunned by most, a really fun pick of adventurous climbs. Jerome

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: Jerome: wow! 9.5 hours is awesome! I think route finding would be easier in April under a good snow pack. Was the big boulderfield just east of the summit of Persis covered? Thanks! There wasn't any visible boulderfield,although I think I know what you're talking about, at least where it'd be. All nice, solid snow. Jerome

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: Alex: I have read at least one account of someone doing the traverse durring the winter but instead of descending to Lake Serene they make a 2 dayer out of it and go back to Persis. I think it would be a lot easier to travel over snow than verticle dirt. We took several pictures, but they need developing. I'll send some in if they turn out. My friend and I did this route in early spring, April or so, this year. We climbed the W. Ridge of Persis, traversed to Mt. Index main peak, then retraced our steps to the car. We had snow from 3/4 of the way up the W. Ridge all the way to Index; it was thankfully firm in the morning, but rather mushy by the afternoon. It is very beautiful with snow on it, and only had one moderately interesting spot; the ridge traversing to Index steepens a bit just before opening up onto the summit plateau. Probably a hundred or so feet of steeper snow. Also, the summit cornice on Index was large, and stepping over it for a brief tour of the E. Face would be terribly easy. With reasonable snow conditions the climb is quite feasible in one day. We're not exceptionally fast by any stretch of the imagination, and we were car to car in 9.5 hrs. Jerome

Single pitches E. Face Snibble Tower, 5th pitch. 5.9, Smith - great thin crack in a wonderful position, made a little better by the crud you've got to do to get to it Dishonourable Discharge, 10b, Leavenworth - pretty hard for being so damn short! Split Pillar, right side, 10b, Squamish - not the hardest crack I've lead, but definately the best Thin Fingers, 11a, Index - obviously. Pretty easy once past the start Kite Flying Blind, 11c, Index - haven't gotten clean yet, but still a beautiful, difficult crux G-M to Heart of the Country, 10a, Index - really good handcrack Exasperator full, 10c, Squamish - even better after a couple of beers Multi Grand Wall, 11a, Squamish Snake, 5.9, Squamish Davis-Holland/Lovin' Arms, 11b, Index Outer Space, 5.9, Leavenworth Alpine Burgundy Spire, N. Face, 5.8 - sunrise at the bivi can't be beat South Early Winter Spire, Direct E. Buttress, 5.9 A1 - easier than I thought it'd be, but still fun

Anyone done the Direct East on South Early Spire recently? Did you need an axe for coming down the bit of snow after the South Arrete, or was the snow nicely soft? Thanks! Jerome

Has anyone been down the gully off Snow Creek Wall recently? Wondering how much snow was in it, and whether it could be rapped past or we should take more stuff. Thanks! Jerome