freak

ice axe and some like hiker crampons would have been helpfull when I was up there, from like the propeller you go across the slabs climb up through a notch then down climb some sketchy stuff, then your on the pocket, go fast. dude park a car at the "new slesse trail" rideing a bike like 10 miles after that thing would suck. Finding the right road to park on is a bitch, when your near the boys camp, your close. dude when you get on the mossy face thats like 1/3 of the way up, you get to the top of that, veer back towards the ridge crest,to get to the 5.8 layback crack that ends at a nice bivy. if you dont you could get sandbagged in a blank 5.11 corner with no pro, you will have to get all mission imposible style. this canuk got all off route there, we cliped him into one of our peices as we passed and saved his ass, he took a wild pendulum though, it was rad. have fun, the upper pitches are bad ass corners and little overhangs, gear is sometimes funky but adequate.

I was solo top roping once and my harness wasint doubled back. I was way off the deck and I look down and Im like, whoa dude!!!

dude you guys are harsh. perhaps stay on the westside. no actually come out so I can be at index boulder crimpin, (he he) adding sit starts to Zoom and Heart of the country. probably ups the grade to v666. yessssss I also perfected a figure four leg lock, heel hook dyno, finger pocket twist to some casual route in BC, the one with the hanus glaicer. These new WAVE ALPINE tecniques can be made avalilable to you for a small fee. If you attend the rock fest. he he he hehihihjkheeeeeee. on the bright side maybe free beer todd will live up to his name, although I doubt it.. nic

Check out the ICe house.. From alphabet rock. walk towards icicle buttress (exactly) (at an orange post),an undercut boulder and a busted carin) take a right, bush wack 15 ft. V Fun+ Mountain home road. take the short cut to the icicle. left second light from safeway. make a left on mountain home road. follow it for a few miles turns to dirt, keep going until your in the big burn area that hillside is coverd in boulders. park find the trail that goes down follow it to a big boulder 45degrees overhanging thirty ft long 12 ft high nice landing. Vfun to V sick bellow that is bovine medows,nice views. freak

not sprayin just sayin. east side of ped bridge.yup black rock. dive up to mission ridge keep lookin left and you will see a big erratic way down in this valley. do a U turn drive like your going to malaga make a right at the bottom of the hill. follow road thru a neiborhood. road turns to dirt park at a switch back. ignore sighns, a few steep topropes. a litte vauge I know. TUrtle rock is an island in the colombia. basalt. walk down river from top foods (didle) boulders you will come to a few boulders with a few cool things on em.

where ya from max? check out the pedestrian bridge area, fecal freak boulder, you will see why. Black rock and some other remnants of Ben S... are around near town or near the river. turtle rock looks and sounds bad ass but its a birdy sanctuary. okay see ya

Dave page AKA The Butcher Ramutas is good, down the street from feathered Freaks and REI, I find that reasoleing is hit or miss, Both folks mentioned above have destroyed a pair and both have resurected a pair, but I onsighed my hardest crack in a pair done by ramuta. that really doesent mean jack though. From now on its The Rubber room in Bishop. www.rubberroom.com

Hey max, are ya fighten fires? well there the entiat river boulders, cant miss em, one of the best v3's in the state. Overhanging arete, Other than that theres the usuall stuff in leven//peshastin. If your in wenatchee and your stocking up on food at fred meyer walk to the south west end of the parking lot, theres a couple solos and a super hard lip traverse on the big boulders, has not been sent yet despite efforts by strong mo fo's. let me know if you find any more cool shit near entiat or wentatchee, nickrosser@usa.net

HEy victor, new routes, I think this is old news but, Sport bolts added to dans dread full direct, bolts added what was a top rope climb next to Dogleg on alphabet rock. bring some small "widgets". optional Theres some routes up across the first rusty bridge in the tumwater, cross the bridge cut left to a little boulder and follow faint trail up, I have not done them, they look cool. The arete on alphabet,Right of Into the Womb bolts that are not in your guide, direct up the arete (bear hug) style, harder than 11b more like 11cd but Im no expert, nick

I dont agree with mass produceing climbers. as far as camping goes, that was me in the pullout, I came in very late and left in the morning, just slept in my car, and bailed. Sorry I dident know that was bad karma. ALso i have a question regarding access to the rat creek boulder, is that a go? I was up there lookin the other way when passing the (no tresspassing) sighns, a friend told me that it was writen into the lease of the property that the owner's had to allow access to that boulder. Can any one verify this? nick

ya dude your problably right. on the old skool tip. i guess I can only hope to show people where the rad stuff is cause as far as first accents go it will be brutal. some is better than none though; all the stupid v rateings will be wrong any way. i had illusions of makeing a book but it will be more like topos and pictures photocopied, and stapled. nic

hey eric, is pimp slap thing that sit starts and then moves into the overhaning dihereal? that thing is rad. Topout? nic

HEy Erik, ya see thouse boulders below icicle buttress? those are some sick lines. theres one down there thats like this big prow very, very thin holds. I scrubed a few holds but its beyond me, theres a rad day of bouldering inbetween alphabet rock and icicle buttress, a good cluster of hidden steep rock.nic

those guys are bad ass, did chongo's book on big wall climbing ever come out. I looked at it once in a drunken daze. it was like a PHD thiesis. really good. ahhhhh memories of Jtree. nic

hey pope-I must agree that boulders are for fun. Im just trying to compile some kind of a guide book. If you dont trust your girlfriend to belay you then would you trust her to spot you while topping some desperate off the deck sketchfest? If you dont have shit to say exept your lame opinion on bouldering then dont post. nic

Theres gear before the first bolt on that climb, i led it two weeks ago, a horizontal crack takes good gear about 10 ft off the ground.I basically put in three pieces, the most sketchy part is above the first bolt I think cause theres like a thin wire placement that may hold a fall but your not going to hit the deck from there. Maybe he missed the gear at the bottom. OUch man that sucks, nic

adding bolts is weak, rise to the challenge. nic

Unfortunately at Vantage sometimes this happens, I usually dont mind if the person is nice, But if not then tell em where to go, BACK TO SEATTLE. just kiddin I used to live there but found a lot more rock over here so I moved. n.

If ya have any info on bouldering first accents in the icicle. Please email me with info,, nickrosser@usa.net Anything would be great, info on that stuff up mountain home road, Tumwater across the river, you know the spot, barneys,swift, fuzz, ice house, egg's, fridge, thanks, nic

I saw a chopper longline two people out of the sam hill trundle dome area today, one in a streacher(sp) IM hopeing it was just the mountain rescue guys practicing. I was far a way and couldent see exactly what was going on. ANy body know what happend? thanks, freak

thanks folks. cheers. nic, aka freak

Would it be better to approach from chilliwack or North cascades? Any particular route betta would be cool. okay bye