ScottP

quote: Originally posted by haireball: "Because it's there" - ain't that about the goofiest thing we ever heard? and he wasn't talkin' about no boulder... He was being facetious.

quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: Who is a bigger trailer trash slut - Kitty, or Chris Boskoff? Having had the opportunity to meet both Kitty and "crazyjz" (Kitty was on Centerfold with John Krakauer right behind Der Cobb and me. "crazyjz was toproping at Bruce's Boulder.), I would have to say that from my first impressions, "crazyjz" is the bigger trailer trash (What's with that neon orange?).

pope wrote: "I once climbed Cutthroat Peak's South Buttress with this broad...." I once climbed a route with a "broad" at Squamish. I lead up the first pitch, clipped the anchor, and call to her to start climbing as she is out of sight. She starts climbing and I start taking in rope. After a time she calls for slack, so I give her some. Then she calls for more so I give her more. This goes on for a while until I realize that something is up. I loosen the clove hitch on the anchor and move to where I can see her. She has climbed past like the first three pieces of pro and will surely deck if she comes off. I calmly ask her if she can downclimb to which she replies in the negative. I calmly ask her to climb down to the piece she just passed and clip into it. Once she does, I am just able to lower her to the ground against the rope drag. It took a while to figure out how to sort out the resultant clusterfuck. She was kind of new to the sport.

Skiing up to Camp Muir one sunny spring day, I was passed by two jarheads (military-types) sporting nothing more than shorts, chuka boots, sunglasses, and severe sunburns on their backs. Dangling over each of their shoulders was a loop of goldline with a handful of steel carabiners and pitons clipped to it.

Like one, that on a lonesome road Doth walk in fear and dread, And having once turned round, walks on And turns no more his head; Because he knows a frightful fiend Doth close behind him tread. Coleridge, The Ancient Mariner

We were all one at one time...

quote: Originally posted by haireball: trivia quiz - who the hell were Herb & Jan Conn? Many first ascents in the Needles (Black Hills)

I set up a toprope for Lisa Gnade on Model Worker at Index. I skiied past Fred on the way up to Camp Muir...he glared at me (swoon) I've climbed extensively with Robert Cobb. He knows everybody.

"Blood is an indicator of poor technique" Jim Bridwell (I think)

A completely naked, beautiful woman sponge bathing herself on the shore of upper canyon creek lakes in the Trinity Alps of N CA. We were approaching stonehouse wall and were stunned by the sight. As we walked past, she nonchalantly said, "Hello."

"Blood is an indicator of poor technique." -Jim Bridwell (I think)

I'd like to have a go at it.

I've done the first and second pitches a couple of times now. The crux has eluded me once due to rain and once for being a weaney. The belay at the top of the arch pitch has at least one 3/8ths bolt and two or three old 1/4 inchers. the hooking fromt here is not obvious. I could find no batholes to get over to the flakes from the belay and didn't relish a swing into the corner if I came off. (I have since figured that a little slack would produce less of a swing and the drop is clean)Once at the flakes, the rest of the pitch to the turn at the corner looks very straightforward. I hammered a couple of angles in the arch pitch itself, and found larger cam hooks useful on the first pitch (the first time I din't have them and had to free climb left past some funk in my wall boots) I wish I had more to offer.

"Trad" Something I had been doing for more than a decade suddenly was "trad" climbing. I hate that.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Deal and Oh I aint Tshirt man either in case you were wonderin... You know, actually I was thinking, "hmm, iwonderifthatistshirtman."

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: We only render payment in green plants. ScottP if that is acceptable name your price. wow! uh... what it would take to get me there and back?

quote: Originally posted by jblakley: ScottP, I don't think you should hold back dude. I think a certain amount of conflict is good for any discussion. Get's everyone to think. If someone is offended by someone elses opinion then maybe they should go talk to their mommy and tell her how the bad people don't agree with him/her. I'm not very fond of any form of censorship. I say let it all hang out. Well not all...hey..put that away!! Gee...Okay...One last thought... Alpine -style means fast and light with the intention of doing a route as fast as possible, for safety's sake if not style. You don't set up a camp, you take bivy gear and you use it when and if necessary rather than making a camp TWO of the objectives of a route. The objective is the route with the idea of camping being only a necessary sufferance due to route length. [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 06-12-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: "The discipline of mountain climbing originated in the French Alps, so the word "alpinism" derives from the French root "alp". Alpine style is mountain climbing reduced to it's purest essence, and extreme alpinism takes us to the cutting edge of that style. Alpine style means attempting to climb mountians on the most equitable footing possible, neither applying excessive technology to overcome deficits in skill or courage nor using permenently damaging tactics, and adhering to this ethos from begining to end. It means being equal to the challenge imposed by the natural state of the mountain." Exerpt from the introduction to "Extreme Alpinism", by Mr. Mark Twight. I don't endorse off subject replys, especially to my own topic but, I just finished reading the book for the second time and it was fresh on my mind. It seems to me that Mr. Twight would agree that the campers at Muir are not climbing "alpine style" according to the definition he gives. IMO They don't seem to be climbing expedition style either, just safe and sane. I must apologize for my off topic reply. I have been posting to rec.climbing for years and it is the way things are that if one doesn't agree with the contents of a post it is acceptable to post a reply regarding such a discrepancy. In the future I will try to keep my mouth shut unless it pertains to the subject line of the thread.

As leader of this expedition, I am obliged to charge 60,000 clams to short haul all of you to the summit and back.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: ScottP, So I guess when Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff climbed Shishapangma last year in "alpine style" not using any "moving" camps or fixed line but made two bivys, they weren't actually climbing alpine style....hmmmmm. I guess all of the greats, Rienhold Messner, Scott Fisher, Carlos Buhler, Mark Twight, and the like will have to rewrite their books and traditions. I'll get a hold of them ASAP. . This is where we differ in our understanding. I believe that the modern meaning of "Alpine-style" means light and fast, bivying when and if necessary, but not carrying the gear to set up an intermediate camp or camps between the base and summit. Stopping for the night at Muir, Sherman, Hazard etc. means that you carry the tent, etc for a CAMP not a BIVY. The people you mention do alpine-style climbs. The majority of the people who go up on Rainier establish a camp, spend (some of)the night, and continue from there. While this is not seige climbing per se, it is not alpine-style in the modern sense of the word.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Scott - please explain to me how most people ascend Mt. R They tend to walk. Some people, however, use skiis with skins.

quote: Originally posted by Alpine Tom: The phrase "alpine style" only makes sense in mountains high enough for siege tactics (a string of camps, established in a series of increasingly high climbs, with fixed ropes, sherpas, etc.) But, spending the night at Camp Muir (or Thumb Rock, or the summit) doesn't make it a non-alpine ascent. Technically, I believe it does. You plan to camp at a particular location on the route (not a base camp), then you have an intermediate camp. Hence, it isn't an alpine-style ascent.

It's been a few years, but... Take a selection of hooks for the crux third pitch. When we did it, there was a fixed copperhead, but it was small and not really that fixed. The sixth pitch: I suggest you don't belay right at the base of the pitch (it is a bit loose). There is an alternate stance up and to the right as you look at the pitch. We finished it after fixing to the top of the third. 3 hours to fix and 9 hours to jug and finish the next day.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: In my experience apline styple does not mean in a single day, but means that you do not use moving camps. Put simply, everyone does Rainier apline style. The concept of alpine style ascents stems from the days when big mountains were climbed using seige tactics-strings of camps along a climbing route with the final push starting from the highest camp. With the advent of better equipment and techniques, people began abondoning the idea of erecting succesively higher camps and instead choosing to carry everything needed (fuel, food, shelter), bivying when/if necessary. This new ideal was called "alpine-style". Put simply, most people do not ascend Rainier alpine-style. [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 06-11-2001).]

Let me get this straight: You have a four day weekend and your goal is to do Midway, Midway Direct OR Saber. Dude, do all three and throw in the Old Gray Mare/Canary connection and Direttisema to boot. Then on the second day...