Peter_Puget

You can always find something to climb at Index! Bring a brush and go clean Weed-B-Gone.

Please....

My point exactly Bill. This design is from my experience the type of Star bolt most often used in climbing applications (granite all over and softer rock too (ie Pinnacles, CA) Almost always when you see and old bolt with a Star on it it is this type of bolt.

Here is an old Star Drive bolt (a lead collar around the base of the sleeve is missing):

post this link...

Consider..... Butterballs (Cookie CLiff) MeatGinder (Cookie Cliff) Crescent Arch (Meadows DAFF?)

I think walking thru old growth is much more enjoyable. The fact you can walk thru old growth forests is one of their defining features.......

Jeremy Reed is in town He aint takin' no prisoners Jeremy Reed is in town Lock your doors and hide your women The Reedster is comin'!

5/16" too.

Hey I'd be happy to buy those off you! Anyone have 1/4" bolts, I'll take 'em.

You guys also missed the Star Dryvin error. The few I've placed and the many I have seen did not have a depth requirement different from a 5 piece or wedge style anchor.

The Longlife does most certainly not require one to drive it into the bottom of the hole to work. You can place a longlife into a hole a mile deep and it will work. I think that you maybe wrong here.....

My hunch is that the choice of expoxy is critical. Ultimately every choice involves tradeoffs. What I find surprising is how little people actually know about what they are doing. (myself included) Overall things seem work out but there are always great leaps of faith being made.

I am a bit unsure what you mean by epoxy reinforced. I have always thought that bolts that work via some mechanical principle shouldn’t be epoxied because doing so can inhibit the mechanical action. That said if you use an epoxy suitable for a glue-in bolt what you are really doing is turning a mechanical device into a chemically bonded one which is probably ok just an inefficient use of dollars. If the wrong epoxy is used you might simply be creating a time bomb.

Yes- You can have many days of great climbing in the greater Vancouver area!

Orgasmatron isn't really a jamming crack. Maybe one or two trivial jams over its entire length. That's not to say it osn't a fun route.

No spoof they have just been around for many years... the Alpinist blog makes them look new.

Did you get this from a Alpinist reader blog? If so you should know it not a new invention at all. When I saw the blog entry I first thought it was a Alpinist article and was tempted to write them complaining about their poor quality control..then I realized it was a reader blog. BTW - The past few articles I looked at in the Alpinist had basic errors. I just scan the mag but wonder just thow good their QC is.

Don't forget Sexon

Don't make me fight you Porter......

Another Grade VI at the Safe! Don't make Felix mad...get your butts to the Safe!

I think Dod's Jam should be removed from all Beacon guides. Not only was the ascent against the rules but the FA party knew it was!

When a corner is turned look ahead not back......the summer s/b sizzzzzzzling......