mocco

Fire gave us a major detour up to Pemberton after almost driving into it! I'm in Vancouver, how can I get pink back to you?

Nice TR. We were up there on the weekend and bootied a pink tricam from near the top of Viennese. Was it yours?

I've done that crossing. Used 2 BD ovals, clipped to the top cable. Pretty much any larger gate biner will work, and use your cordelette for the tether so you don't have to bring any special gear. Heard of someone who once brought a bike U lock over the whole traverse just for the cable (!) I walked the middle cable. I think walking is the way to go, a friend tyroleanned the lower cable and found it hard work pulling his carcass and gear up the last half. If you walk, you just have to push giant balls and cones out of the way, kind of like being on Knockout. Nice to have 2 biners on separate tethers so you can pass the balls and cones while staying clipped in. Make sure your tether isn't too long either. Trying to prussic that if you fell off would be a tiring exercise in frustration. That leather glove trick is cool, have to remember that one...

Don't have any technical knowledge of the fabric, but spent a rainy, stormy and cramped night on Mt. Baker in a Brooks Range Rocket tent my partner had. I believe he said it was made from Cuben fibre. Us two sweaty fartbags woke up dry. Neither the rain outside or the condensation inside were any problem. One night isn't a very conclusive test, but I was impressed.

So, I'm having a little obsessive freakout and can't decide: have pairs of both Petzl Aztarex and Grivel Matrix (with the funky horns). Like both for different reasons, Aztarex blue ice pick is really nice for ice and a lighter tool, Matrix is comfortingly burly in alpine and climbs ice ok as well. I'm not a hard climber by any means, and I know both are fine for my level. Should only keep one pair, so I'm looking for opinions as to which it should be. Grivel? Petzl? One of each? Give up snow and ice and just ski and sport climb? What do you think?

Hey Goran, nice meeting you today! You can email me at mocco88athotmaildotcom. Hope you beat the hail! Sean

Hey all, Have a long weekend and am wondering about the feasibility of mt stuart's north ridge. Still too much snow or has it dried out a bit? What about Dragontail? Seems like the low snow year may permit for early alpine. Am I wrong? Thanks, Sean

Www.wildsnow.com is a great resource for this kind of stuff.

Veronica and Rafael, We spoke a bit on Sunday about Chair and Dragontail, as well as north Joffre Creek. Nice to meet you both. Sorry we didn't get a chance to speak more. Let me know if you are coming up this way again and would like to climb, I'm in Vancouver. Sean

Hey, I live in Vancouver BC, have a flexible schedule and want to get out. I'm not an amazing ice climber, lead 3 or picked out 4, but can follow all. I'm fit, safe, and would be stoked to get out if you head up this way. Polar Circus is definitely a dream of mine, and you're right, conditions look amazing now. If any of this sounds interesting, email me at mocco88@hotmail.com and we can talk. Thanks, Sean Draper

Hey, was up there last weekend. Swam upwards in pow. Should have brought the skis...peeps in the hut said the Aussie couloir was in great shape...

As Drew notes, there is a lot of snow up there right now. I was in there 2 weeks ago, and was amazed at the thickness of the glacier. 3 stories at least. It will be impressive when/if it all goes. If you feel you have to climb NE Butt this early in the season, you will find crossing the glacier to be the crux. Direct start may be a bit safer, but will expose you to debris fall from above for longer. There will be snow on the route, which is both good and bad. An ascent in August or September may be more straightforward, but if a mixed bag is what you are seeking, you should go now. Good luck!

Looking to get up the N ridge of Baker or head to the Rockies for a few days (Skyladder is on the list, or E ridge of Mt Temple. 5.7 on Mt. Stephens as well). Free to leave any time today or tomorrow. Have experience, gear, motivation. Sean mocco88 at hot mail

Hey, just a thought about the Attache 3D. I have one, and really like the lightness of it, but do find as mentioned above that when the I beams wear through, they do get really sharp. I got about 6 months out of mine last year before that happened and it was relegated to "bail biner" status. For anything that is going to be doing a lot of belaying, especially with a sandy or dirty rope, I now prefer to stick with the regular Attache. It or a William work quite well for muntering (is that even a verb?). For lightweight anchor biners, I find I really like those BD Vapourlock biners, cheaper than the 3D, and they'll munter just fine too.

What size are your feet? Saw a pair at a thrift shop here recently. If you are around a size 9 mens (that's my size and the shoes seemed to fit), I could grab them and mail them to you. Sean mocco88@hotmail.com