LUCKY

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Lucky rules!!! And there is a Valley East as I have been there been there! (I think) OK LUCKY please tell me two routes there on 12a the other to the right a bit slabby? Am I correct? PP Buy the book, due out in a couple of weeks I am already probably going to get shit for leaking beta. And tell Eric and greg to change there diapers

quote: Originally posted by erik: not stirring up shit one bit lucky..... i think that exit 38 is where you should grid bolt the fuck out of the rock....that places serves it patrons well... certainly i have personal issues with 2 bolts contrivences, but those are my issues and i rarely feel the need to even care about them... but a bunch of people trying to keep public land secret and what not is bogus....and quite selfish.... i would not take the time to contact the state parks, as it is a waste of time with no results.........becuase i am sure that you are your friends know and are working with the state park officals. i remember somethingawhile ago that you needed to get the land managers prermission to bolts routes, and i am sure you have done that..... granted if the extent of route development goes into what happens at vantage(quarrying for routes) then i would have an issue, as i belive that certainly some cleaning needs to take place to removes losse rock, but i have seen some people quarrying(spending day on rappel ripping blocks away) is sad and abusive to the enviroment erik i have quite a fine life sir........no need to tell me to get one...... WHAT A WANKER

I am holding an advance copy of the guide book due out soon. Vally view west has no access issues. Go like you are going to bobs at the .......( ask eric he knows everything ) Great crag solid rock hard moves 510,511 cracks ,512s If you don't want to get lost or because this is just a sample BUY THE BOOK.If there is a vally view west there must be a vally view east and what about interstate park?theres more and more. [ 09-09-2002, 05:14 PM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: turf wars on public land?? sounds like maybe we should get the state parks involved to discuss the ownership issues, i am sure they would love too...... Trying to stir up s*&% needlessly Get a life

Cpt Caveman how they hangen. My partner blew both her ankles out in a bad fall she was out for 6 weeks We are doing short approaches and she is Topropeing for the rest of the year

Jon I feel like I am hiting my head against a brick wall I post signs I get my tires slashed I call the police they put me on hold lie to me and tell me they will send some one out never happens they take my number and still nothing happens yes they do hit the twin falls iron horse trail head also when going to Amazonia a friend got had there I can not tell you why they would do my car over and over I also can not tell you why when your watching a car prowl the police will not respond Just look at some of the climbers that have come out and relized they where hit there and most don't I have know frendships broken till they realized from me it was not there friend that riped there cards I have to let this go it's eating me up and if you knew me you would know i am not the type to let things go.I am just glad you have this site so at least it will make the climbers parking lot less profitable and they will stop or lighten up to this board and all the posters that give up usefull beta

quote: Originally posted by LUCKY: quote:Originally posted by jon: These guys could easily be caught without putting anyone into harms way. Confronting people like this with baseball bats is a stupid idea and I shouldn't have even said it. A couple bucks isn't worth getting you or someone else shot. With a couple pairs of binoculars and radios/cell phones and some patience you could stake these guys out. Let them do their thing, try to catch it on tape or video with witnesses. and then have a few cars waiting to trail them. That's when you call the police and lead them to them. Oh you mean like I did calling the police on the cell giveing them there discription and the cars they are driving as I am still watching them doing the car [ 09-20-2002, 04:46 AM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]

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Off white I have been car prowled three times out of five times that I have been to exit 38 in the last two weeks, a lot of the time they are hitting the after work crowd . This credit card theft ring has been hiting the area I would say it started 7 years ago and they have car prowled me every year since. On one occasion they slashed my tires for posting warning signs and that just pissed me off more, I was in quite a rage . Yes by trips I mean things you can do to tell if they have been in your car, Low Teck a little rock here a fold of your cloths there,I am not giving up all my trips. They have also been known to wait in the dark woods across the road and watch you put your stuff away. Just think of the credit card resource this lot has provided for them . I think the police are busy with a stakeout of the muir hut to be bothered with a credit card thieft ring.

quote: Originally posted by erik: i was out there last wensdany.....no one went through my car....lucky enough i stopped drivin some classy shizz and roll in a piece of shizz....but like mtngrrrlll said take your wallet with you!!! Are you sure? untill I started placeing trips in my car I did not know how often I was being went trough. A lot of my friend have been went through that drive hashed cars .They don't take anything they scan your cards put everything back nice and neat and lock the car back up. I know of friendships broken over this shit these guys are slick and pro's it's a credit card thieft ring .

Ok so for the weekend I climbed at exit 38 sat my rig was went through by the credit card bandit sun I'm walking along the railroad grade and here a car alarm go off so I hike up to a vantage spot I know and watch these two dudes jacken cars so I call the police they tell me they will send the first availble officer out for a drive by, I tell them they should put a officer at the ends of the exit because I am watching what they are driving (small bright red two door car around 94 they all look alike )and a gray 84 to 87 ford ranger pickup with black strips on the side and give them a discription of what they are wearing, so then me and one of the owners of the car he is jacken and two other dudes I pick up run down to parking lot they are already gone should have never wasted time calling the police and guess what the police never send anyone by, now that was lame. The car they jacked they left the credit cards, now they scan them and make duplicates they locked his car back up and put everything back nice and neet so they can come back another day, damn I hate rip offs and its not like he is going to get a credit card scan from me but I am getting tired of him going through my rig I FEEL VIOLATED

Jens you are right, Old growth forest wonderland and some of the best sport climbing in the NW are locked up with DNR politics. I took a hike down that vally and it blew my mind, what a waste. Wish I could have enjoyed it before it was locked up.

Fossil is a walk or mtn bike only access area as far as the signs go Weyerheauser is a public access tax break property area so Weyerheauser trys to keep as many people out and keep there tax break so usualy they escort you out or ask you to leave, in extreme cases (4wheelers or dirt bikes tearing up the hillside or wood thiefs they call the sheriff )no one I know has ever got a trespassing ticket and I have worked for Weyerhesuser in the past and climbed at Fossil more than most anyone (20 minutes from the house or I probably would not climb there)For the beginner or some one climbing in the 5.5 to low 11's it can be real fun, for the hardman it's a choss pile. Please respect the signs don't drive past gates keep a low profile ( act like a hiker or mtn biker that visit the area for the view of Rainer) access is fragil I don't know if there would be enought support if Weyerhaeuser denied access. Access is closed till we have a rain or hunting season. Approach: at the 1000 road gate#202 park here walk or mtn bike past gate at 1.7 mile turn right on 1190 road gate has Fossil written on it, go uphill only on main logging road 1 mile till dead end and view of Rainer do not think the big wall on right is Fossil. Fossil is the high point of the area. the area has many top ropes and easy climbs great place to learn the ropes without the seasoned climbers looking down ther nose at you,The view of Rainer is killer Have Fun [ 08-29-2002, 07:29 AM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]

If you climbed at exit 38 after work 8/28 you car was probably car prowled Credit card thief slim jims door, and the latest is he scans your card and makes a copie then emptys your account. Due to the fact that he locks your car back up and does not steel anything most people don't know they have been had . This has been going on for 7 years that I know of, the parking lot is a cash cow for these thiefs Spread the word and keep a lookout [ 09-21-2002, 07:01 AM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]

The wayout boulder exit 38 approach trail to the trestle as you start to enter clearing 150ft before you go under the trestle at boulder in trail go right along log with rub marks here you find the wayout boulder 35ft wide 18ft tall slightly overhanging gradualy goes uphill from left to right.Yo mama (because it's as wide as yo mama) V-2 traverse from left to right any way you can. Yo mama goes down V-3 from right to left going down hill. Low traverse keeping feet 1ft from ground undone thought to be v-4+ or v-5 (let me know if you send) some 5.12 climbers have been trying this one. Outbreak V-0 from left going right out feature in center hoping those jugs at the top don't break off when your toping out. To right of feature in center outtabounds V-1. Outdated 5.9 center feature going straight up and out. Small boulder just before you round the conner to the wayout boulder has old round Railroad spike at base sit start: You hurt me V-0

I checked out windy point cracks I am soon to start a FA tick list of all the good ones If anyone has FA's let me know, if I don't find evidence of an FA I will be sending and claiming them(I know they are short and easy but hey so am I ) there are two bolted lines, I did not do them and do not plan on any bolted lines at this crag they look out of place but hey I could not see them till I was at them so who am I to judge If anyone gets to them first thats cool but these cracks need cleaning please don't do a FA and leave a trash crack where there could be a classic

The fire swept from the swinging bridge to the columns, trees along river were left and brush at bottom of the crags. The swinging bridge is good and the tyrolean traverse and trees at the columns are good but the traverse needs a ladder anyone with access to a aluminum 10 to 12 ft ladder I will install it permanently just let me know. You can ford the river upriver about 300 yd at gravel bar about knee deep for normal people I was almost treading water (anyone who has met me just laughted) BTW don't try it in Teva's they act like flippers. The Q hut is still there but the cabin is burnt to the ground [ 08-19-2002, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]

On the back side of Lane is pk 5810, a friend told me its name is Wahpenayo thumb ,it can be seen from Pinnacle as a cone shaped pk with a steep rock se face, Becky guide says snow routes .I have been checking it out and am looking for background beta scramble routes rock routes snow routes ect I have been accessing it from the pinnacle saddle is there a quicker way? BTW don't forget your bug juice like I did.

Thanks Smoker I am glad someone appreciates the hard work, time and money a route setter puts into a route. From bumbly to hardman I solicit criticsm. I send my routes on a regular bases for maintenance and enjoyment. My biggest worry is that someone would get hurt on one of my routes and I think all route setters have this worry. [ 08-18-2002, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]

The untold wealth of bouldering in the North Bend area is starting to be discovered steep problems good rock with soft landings and a forest setting. I have been ask by a few friends to put together a small guide. The guide will be free thats right free and email friendly. You can post the problems here and I will have fun checking them out or you can email me at gibson@cco.net the detailed info or pictures of you problems.

On the approach trail at boulder in middle of trail just before the clearing 150ft before you go under trestle go right along small log with rub marks here you will find the Wayout boulder: Yo MaMa ,V2 traverse gradually up hill from left to right 35ft feet never are over 4ft off the ground other straight up problems exist on this boulder. A little farther you will find 45ft NEW sport route 5 bolts OUTBURST roof to slab to vertical edges 5.10-D Have fun LUCKY [ 08-15-2002, 10:51 PM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]

My X Wife 5.10-A exit 38. It's short, easy and sooner or later all my buddys will do it

Orange sunshine, just when you think you have it and you have this henious pump, that face move blows you off and you take a whipper on that last peace of gear. Out of three trys , hung , whiped ,got it

Thank You John, for the 1/2" cable spanning the river, for the tyrolean treverse. The industrial screw gate biner was almost worn through on both ends, so I have replaced it with a homemade steel plate and bearing pulley. This should minimize the wear on the cable and make the treverse easier. [ 05-19-2002, 07:55 PM: Message edited by: LUCKY ]