Jedi

Today, I talked to the Millet rep and did not recommend the Shivlings for Denali. Cross those off the list. Their Everest boot (which he recommended)is a little heavy for me and probably does not fair well on technical ground.

Have any of you guys tried any of these boots? Any info (the good, bad & the ugly) would be great? I know the X2 Explosions are only avail in Europe but it does not mean they cannot be obtained. They are built on the same last as the 8000's and are similar to the Spantiks. I'm curious about the fit. Maybe wider than the Spantiks???? Thanks, Jedi

If he is looking at the WB, the Nuptse's will walk better. The Spantiks are stiffer (from what I'm told) so they are better on the steeps.

Marcus! Good to hear from you man. I bet you've been slaying dragons and what not. Thanks for the heads up. I am also going to look into Kayland boots (as someone recommended to me). I have been told they have a wider toe box also. At a glance, they are not easy to find on the internet (need mail order). We are going to for go the Ruth this year and hopefully head up Denali. Maybe the Cassin, if the weather and luck are on our side. Gotta send all but one pair of Spantiks back to Zappo's (free shipping both ways). You have a year to see if you like them. I'll see if I can find another brand to compare them to the Spantiks and go with the ones that hurt my feet the least;). You gonna be in the range this year or are your dragons elsewhere? Jedi

I cleaned Zappo's out of Spantiks in search of a boot for Alaska this coming spring. Looks like a fantastic boot but the toe box is too narrow for my 4E toe box. The biggest pair (43.5's) appears to be no bigger than the 43. I even got out the tape measure and could find not different. I could not feel ANY difference either. There was a noticable difference between the 42.5 and the 43. Why not go for the 44 you ask? If I pull the insole (on the 43 or 43.5) out and stand on it, barefooted, there is an 1 1/8" from the end of my big toe to the end of the insole. My calves start to burn thinking about going bigger. Sooo...has anyone tried both the Spantik and the Ice 9000 and found the Vasque to have a more boxy/wider than the Spantik??? It does not have to be much of a difference but a little would help. Any other recommendations? Well besides my wife's "well, those don't fit, I guess you can't go". Thanks, Fred Flinstone

Yes, you are right, the I tent is bigger than the El tent. What I meant was the EV3 (48 s.f.) is bigger than the Eldorado(31 s.f.) Sorry, I should had clarified. Jedi

I have the El I-Tent. It has less sq footage. When hanging in a tent for several weeks, it's nice to have a little extra space. Especially on weather days. It's not going any higher than 14K so the 7 1/2 weight is not a big deal. The snug 2lb 5oz tent is for the technical route. If I had $400 right now, I'd jump on Faster's tent. Jedi

DOOOOHHHH! Thanks for the correction Acr. Yes, the MH EV3. That's good to hear the MH EV3 has bigger vents. It wil just be 2 of us, but I thought the bigger tent might be nice. I am finally leaving the North Face VE 25 (I think that is what it is called) at home. It's a great staging tent but at 10 1/2 pounds, it can stay at home this go around. Does the EV has anything that seperates the built in vestible from the rest of the tent? Jedi

Thinking about the EV3 for next summers trip to AK. Just planning on using the EV3 while acclimating on the West Butt. We have a lighter tent for the route. So has anyone spent anytime in one? Comments? Thanks, Jedi

Does the new site screen out all the idiots. Should be nice to visit if it does. This site soooooo much better! Jedi

When you guys say wide, you mean like like 2E? Just curious because I have trouble finding boots for my 4E toe box. Jedi

Yeah, I'm with Lambone. I don't quite understand the webbing colors. I was recently eyeballing these in MG. I do love the Alien Hybrids for aid but prefer my Metolius (I have the old ones) for free climbing. These would be nice but so would a new set of the Ultralights! Alas.....my debit load says no. Jedi

You guys suck! Well, because you get to climb so much and I don't . It's nice to see that many of youare getting it done and some on a large scale. Wish I had a 5 year period like some in a season. Nice work! I started the year off by decking climbing some bad ice (not a tick but damn glad to walk away from a 30 story fall). Nothing like a 30 footer to slow you down for a couple weeks. But climbing Washington's Column via The Prow was good fun along with some quality free climbing in the Valley. Hopefully a little more aid at Looking Glass before the end of the year.

I recently sent my 2 year old Zenix IQ headlamp back. It would not "acknowledge" new batteries. The low battery light just stayed on. Anyway, it was something that was happening more and more but I just knew they would get it and it would NOT show "symptoms" of going bad. Kinda like that new, weird sound your car now makes but the mechanic can't hear it. They checked it out and are sending new a new light. Sweet!!!!! Jedi

No kidding Mark, they will re-glue the rubber on the shaft??? Man, I could ditch the duct tape!! The Verglass is too narrow to fit my wide hands. If they put some stretch across the back of the hands, it would be MY #1 glove. Oh yeah, I hope to arrive in Talkeetna in mid May. I could not find anyone for the I Spur or the south side of Hunter. I did find a guy interested in the Cassin so I hope to have the opportunity to give it a shot. I'm saving up my good Karma. I still would like to try a new line on Hunter but the line I have eyeballed would probably require too much aid and a willing partner. The Cassin will be fun. Gonna be in the Range next summer??

I could never wear those Ice(boxing) gloves either.

I'd say they have been sweet to me too. I do wish they would listen to me and make the Status glove with a synthetic palm. The "waterproof" pittards leather is f*cking frozen by the morning of day two. What am I suppose to do with that? Oh yeah, put some stretch around the knuckles of any glove shell. Customer since 92 and I still like and own much of their gear. Jedi

I hope to give it a go this season. Hopefully things will go a little easier for us. I wonder if the range will see another dry fall, like the past 2 years????

Way to persevere!! You guys kept your heads and made it happen. True alpinist! Jedi

Yeash!

Tom & Dave are trying it again? I met those guys after they attempted it in 2002. It was too warm and I don't think they even set foot on the route. I hope they get it! Jedi

I hear you. I was there 4/29-5/9 to climb Mount Hunter west ridge. We got stuck at camp 2 where the origibal route meets NW basin route for 4 nights. We had 6-10 inches of new powder snow and 30-40 mpr winds. We just didn't have enough food to attempt the summit. My heart was broken when we had to turn around. We were the first team on the NW basin route on Hunter. So we kicked steps all the way to camp 2. It was a great experiense and I would like to try again next year if I can find partners. Pochi Why such a short trip? You might have been able to give it another go if you have had another week or so. I wonder if Sue and Zoe are going to get a shot at the I Spur? I hear conditions, in the range, are similar to the conditions last year. That would not be in their favor. Jedi

If you are taking a climbing rack, clip it to the rack near the cams (CAM-O). Jedi

OH YEAH!!!!!!!!!! Mine showed up today!! Of all the climbing guides I have bought over the years, this is absolutely the best. Nearly every turn of a page (229 pages) reveals another bold color photo, or very well done topo. The photos are great, I'm nearly ready to quit my job and head north to for another adventure this season (but it will have to wait for next spring). I have climbed a few of the routes and Joe's accuracy is on the money. Well done Joe! Inspirational. Thanks, Jedi p.s I was so jazzed, I bought the Yosemite big wall book tonight.

I have a pair of Alpha's with Intuition liners. They weigh 74oz Size 9. They are a snug fit so they climb GREAT. BUT, if it is cold out, my feet get cold easily. Should have a 9.5 for cold days. I tried the Spantik on last weekend. They only had a 43 (size 10) in stock. A 42.5 would be a better fit but I did not have a good insole in the 43 so I dunno. The laces are wicked thin. One handed lacing, on cold mornings, with gloves would be nice with these boots. I reallly like the boot and at 81oz, it looks like it my next boot. The Ice 9000 are about 11oz heavier (listed weight) but A LOT cheaper. It's all about the fit so I'll have to see. Scott Backes wore the Ice 9000 to the summit of Denali, with no overboots and had no problems so they be pretty warm. Granted, the weather was probably pretty good (Denali good). I think Mt Gear has them only sale real cheap. Andy seemed to like the Spantik http://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoors/showitem.asp?Id=445 I have a buddy who recovered from frostbite on his toes. It took a while but years later, he really does not have any issues when ice climbing. Jedi