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jblakley

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Posts posted by jblakley

  1. In addition to the very good advice thus far, I would get intimate with your rack (gear rack not the other one :-)). Figure out your racking system. Everybody is a little different on this one. I usually rack on my harness but some people prefer a gear sling. You are going to want to know what you need and where it is at as you are hanging from a jam possibly pumping out.

    Get used to looking at a crack and knowing what to pull of your rack the first time. For instance if I am in a hand crack I know that a red or gold (1 or 2) camalot will work. This saves a lot of futzing around with gear as I am pumping out.

    Mentoring is definitely the way to go. Trad climbing has the potential to be much more dangerous than sport because a lot more is left up to the climber. Defnitely don't think that because you can lead 10a sport that you will be doing 10a trad. Go slow ask lots of questions, be safe and have fun!! Good luck.

    Jim

  2. Abba is nothing. For the real hard cases I reserve the Bay City Rollers. Here is a trancrition from one of those penance sessions: "S..A..T..U....R....DDDD!!! <screaming> NOOOOOOO! Shoot me!! Shoot me godamm it!! <unintelligable gurgling sound>..." As you can see it's not pretty.

  3. Lambone,

    Dude you might want to try a little self deprecating humor and more humble attitude. Works better than F&*% Off followed by 1st class super spray. you do realize that climbing is not really important in the overall scheme of things right? Your angry retorts attract the same sort of attention as a gutted Yak in a Piranha infested river. ;-)

  4. I hear that a school of Prana shorts can strip a human clean to the bone in minutes. Is the fabric really that rough? lambone..a new alias may be in order at this point. The one you have now is just too much of a slam dunk. LOL Chin up me bucko, life should be one long laugh.

  5. quote:

    Originally posted by scott:

    i took my girlfriend and dog up to big four- then wandered directly under the avalanche funnel on the north face. ....... "run away, run away!" i yelled to my wife and dog. "it's an avalanche!" "run away!"


    I think it's very cool that your wife and girlfriend get along well enough to do stuff together with you.

     

  6. I like the current system. I definitely think that singling out climbers to foot the bill is an extreme prejudice that has largely been fueled by the way the media dramatizes everything. I also know that the costs of rescues that are usually quoted are misleading since the military writes off chopper rescues as training exercises and this money has already been allocated anyway.

    I would not have a problem paying a small fee upfront as long as hikers, boaters etc.. also payed this fee. Since stupidity is subjective at best I don't think this should be used as a parameter for personal payment. My 1/50th of a dollar.

  7. Donna,

    I hope you don't feel pressured out of this site. I love all the different perspectives that all of the different personalities bring to this site. When I see a post by you I definitely read it. I may not agree with all of it but so what. Everybody's got an opinion/asshole, myself included. All that plus Pope says you're really hot. Got any pics? :-) Just kiddin'. Keep shakin' the basket sweetheart.

  8. Wow Scott a 300 meter crag with potential! That truly sounds cool. How involved is the approach? I'm psyched to check this out.

    Duh 2 mile approach. Read that after I hastily posted this.

    On the topic of self propelled food, I am working with Jon (he's a scientist) on genetically engineering a Power Bar that will walk itself into the route :-)

    [This message has been edited by jblakley (edited 05-24-2001).]

  9. savaiusini

    You might want to try not using all caps in a post. Automatically puts people on guard since this is usually interpreted as anger, cockiness or naivete all of which can be like blood in the water in this sharkpit...lol. Good luck on the climb if you go. I hear the conditions on the Carbon are not good so be careful.

  10. You, Tom Jones and actresses? Interesting offspring I'm sure. Like something from an X-Files episode.

    Tom Jones based offspring: 'What's new pussycat wooo oo wooo oo woo'

    Actress mom: 'Shut up Tom Jr and comb your palms'

    LOL

  11. I enjoy solitude in the wilderness. If I want that I choose routes that are not that crowded. I can choose to speculate why areas are becoming more crowded but that will not change the situation so I try not to go there. I enjoy climbing very much so I really strive to look for the positives. I have very little control in what happens in this world and I think the best way we can teach people new to climbing is by example not criticism. This is a big state and if a climb I want to do is crowded then I have two choices: get pissed off and fume about all of the posers keeping me from doing 'my' route or do something else. I've done both by the way ;-)

  12. AlpineK

    I've never done DDD but it sounds like it definitely has lost it's character by the retro-bolting. I would say if the original routesetter did not retro bolt it or was not consulted for the retro and it can be restored without scarring it too bad, then a little chop chop may be in order. I would hate to see no ethics enforced. Everybody would suffer if there was no respect. It's just a f&*)ing complex issue.

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