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texplorer

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Posts posted by texplorer

    Big fall on little gear

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    -30 footer onto yellow alien on the Yorkshire Gripper at Squamish (had it backed up one foot below with a red alien but didn't need it)

     

    -12 feet onto red loweball Primrose Dihedrals

     

    Probably alot more that I just can't think of.

    Adios Mis Amigos

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    This weekend was probably my last time to visit Smith as a local. In two weeks I am headed to Las Vegas with my girlfriend. I am starting Pharmacy school there in the fall.

     

    A little over five years ago I moved to the NW. I had led maybe one climb and was a staunch republican. Well, I guess the hippies got to me and I learned what alpine 5.9 was. Since then I have identified myself as “a climber” (whatever that really means) and taken to drinking coffee, wearing carharts, and grown web-toes. I am sad to be leaving this place.

     

    I suppose Vegas is not the worst place for a climber to move to but I am still going to miss the NW. I will always identify myself with this place and have a special place in my heart for snafflehounds, horsecock, devilsclub, Fred’s FA list, and of course CC.com.

     

    Thanks to everyone who put up with my arrogant, pompous youthful years. I have learned a lot from so many and had a great deal of fun. Stay in touch and know that you’ll always have a couch to crash on in Vegas-

     

    Carpe Diem

    Texplorer

    Everest Madness

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    If you don't want to read through the entire news report, here's my translation.

     

    Rich parents send 20 year old to world's biggest chestbeating spot.

     

    Yes, Danielle Fisher has climbed the world's highest summit where only few people (ok 1000's) have gone. Not many people are able to get to the summit of everest due to not being able to ride in helicopters or paying to slide ascenders up ropes anchored to the snow.

     

    Danielle has now accomplished a lifelong dream (2 whole years worth of dreaming) to be the youngest person to be able to brag about climbing a via ferrata slog. Danielle was able to accomplish all this despite being ADD. Yes, she had trouble paying attention in algebra class but was able to focus long enough to ask her daddy and other companies for the insane amount of money to climb Mt. Everest.

     

    Congrats Danielle-your cool now.

    climbing 5.10

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Whirly,

    To be able to jump on any .10 is actually quite an endeaver. I have done a few .12 sport routes and feel that I can just now say I can climb any .10 trad route.

     

    The truth of the matter has been touched on by many here. Being a good weight, weight training, getting on harder routes, gym climbing, falling over gear, and getting good at gear placement are all different pieces to a complex puzzle that you must fit together.

     

    Probably the biggest hurdle for most people is the mental one of climbing over gear when they know there is a good chance they'll fall. As a result they "choke" up or simply place too much gear.

     

    The main thing that will get you to where you want is just getting mileage on the rock. TR, lead, aid, follow as much as you can.

    favorite poem

    in Spray

    Posted

    IF

     

    If you can keep your head when all about you

    Are losing theirs and blaming it on you,

    If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you

    But make allowance for their doubting too,

    If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,

    Or being lied about, don't deal in lies,

    Or being hated, don't give way to hating,

    And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise:

    If you can dream--and not make dreams your master,

    If you can think--and not make thoughts your aim;

    If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster

    And treat those two impostors just the same;

    If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken

    Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools,

    Or watch the things you gave your life to, broken,

    And stoop and build 'em up with worn-out tools:

     

    If you can make one heap of all your winnings

    And risk it all on one turn of pitch-and-toss,

    And lose, and start again at your beginnings

    And never breath a word about your loss;

    If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew

    To serve your turn long after they are gone,

    And so hold on when there is nothing in you

    Except the Will which says to them: "Hold on!"

     

    If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue,

    Or walk with kings--nor lose the common touch,

    If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you;

    If all men count with you, but none too much,

    If you can fill the unforgiving minute

    With sixty seconds' worth of distance run,

    Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it,

    And--which is more--you'll be a Man, my son!

     

    Rudyard Kipling

    Rate the Fake Boulders

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Do you think the Red cave route at the Portland Rock Gym is harder than the Orange dyno at stone gardens? What about the blue and green 3 move problem with a jump start at vertical world? What would they be rated on the B scale and the V scale and what about if we gave em English danger ratings too?

    OK...Let's hear

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Well, there's lots of kinds of "most difficult" so . . .

     

    Most work in single pitch - Ahab - I guess I got the onsite of this thing but goddamn if one pitch ever took so much out of me. I bet I was on it for an hour and a half.

     

    Most time - Heinous Cling p1 - I bet I did this thing 15 times before I finally got it. My first foray into really working a route down to the move.

     

    Most exhausting - The Prow - probably wouldn't have been so bad except that I thought I could do it in-a-day style with one gallon of water in early sept. Big mistake! Made it to the top just as dark hit but was so dehydrated all I could think about was water even after I came upon an accident where one guy had taken a 200fter unroped off the edge. On the way down to the awahanee I contemplated getting a drink first or reporting the accident. I reported the accident first and then proceeded to waterlog myself sick.

     

    Lessons:

    Squeeze chimneys - NO!

    Sport Climbing is all about rehearsal

    Caesar was ambitious too - look what happened to him

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