texplorer
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Posts posted by texplorer
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That sucks if the dude hammered them like that. A friend just told me that it was a cool line that is fun enough to be interesting but not scary enough to shit your pants.
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Has anyone done Sea of Dreams? I hear its a mega classic wall with some fun but not too many deathly scary pitches. If so, what did you think about it?
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Red Rocks is wherer all the sports bras will be, if you want to see grizzled men with gnarled stumps for hands then you need to go to the real desert.
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I am Mike's cousin/half brother. Like Mike, I also enjoy epic winter climbs, PBR, and Spooning with my partner. I'm looking for fun this weekend.. . .
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Anyone looking to go to splitter crack heaven? I'm headed to moab March 19th to the 25th or so. I would really like to split gas with someone.
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Tim, You have to Free the first few pitches of organasm through the roof. It goes at .11c but is locker jams all the way. Sawweeet.
The campground I always stay at is known as mosquito cove (the one on the river side of the road a few miles out of town.) It's not per say a campground, but a sandy section on the river.
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At least we have the excuse of not have the Canadian rockies out our back door.
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I agree, as usual, with Strickland.. . except touchstone was my least favorite. The lower pitches were fun but higher up I didn't like the sandy gritty rock. I think Spaceshot and moonlight are the best by far.
Fern, I didn't know you were going to climb solo. In that case, scratch the in-a-push style.
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Even if your not a speed demon you can get this and many of the other aid lines in Zion in-a-push style. Just fix the first 3 pitches or so and then blast for the top the next day. It might make for a long 2nd day but its better than hauling.
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It is a very popular route and there were like 3 parties below us. Also, I think that there are constantly things coming off the top "refilling" the deathblock supply.
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I did the route last year, it's pretty fun but a somewhat uninspiring line with quite a few bolts. Really watch out on the topout. There are really big loose things on top just floating in the sand. I would be careful climbing under people on that route. Have fun.
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anybody else have one they want to sell?
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I wore through one layer of new Carharts on the OW on Primrose Dihedrals (Moses Tower) last spring.
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Claim that Classic Crack in Leavenworth is harder than 5.8.
Truly fear is not a factor for you
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Post a "real" trip report on this site about anything easier and see what happens. I think this is wrong too but that is just my observation.
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Circuit, what do you think your going to $ for membership to this new place?
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We climbers are typically not as paralyzed by heights like the normal public so what would the climber's version of fear factor include?
A few to get you started
1) How many Gu's can you eat in 1:00 with no water
2) How many frozen 5 year old power bars can you eat in 5 min (negative points for broken teeth)
3) Must tie a figure-eight rewoven while dangling upside-down, in total darkness, with one hand tied behind your back, in freezing conditions while water is poured over you.
4) Crawl 2 miles through cactus infested desert and then be strapped to a backboard for 5 hours.(mike layton -free pass to next round on this one)
5) Read all 52,000 of Dru's smart ass posts
6) Remain 2 min in a vat of starving snaffles
7) Free solo of Yokum Ridge to Willis Wall in-a-push style
8) Post a trip report on CC.com
9) Take the anti-bolt viewpoint on CC.com
10) Climb with Texplorer
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Excellent feedback.
Here's my take. The Salathe was my first el cap wall. My previous experience included spaceshot, touchstone, and Moonlight buttress in Zion and the S. face of Washington's Column in the valley.
We climbed Freeblast (the first 11 pitches of the Salathe) on day one and got off at around dark. Rousted by the Rangers at 2:30 in the morning we hiked to the base and started hauling. That morning (on 2 hrs sleep) we began climbing but got stuck behind a party of germans. They let us pass later in the day but we still had to push on until 1:30 in the morning to reach el cap spire. Two days later we topped out as the sun was going down.
The Salathe is a great and historic route. Here's my recommendations if your heart is set on the Salathe. Do freeblast and DO NOT HAUL on it. There are fixed lines to heart ledges that are much easier to haul up. From there expect 3-4 long days (I'm talking sun up to sunset). A portaledge is nice but we didn't have one on our ascent which meant we had to make it to ledges. There are several wide cracks/chimneys but we did everything with only one 4.5 camalot. There is also the hollow flake which pretty much everyone solos - just be mentally ready.
Von Spanker- I think I'll be down there toward the end of June or early July. That time of year is usually too hot to freeclimb so I'm hoping to maybe get some aid on el cap or half dome in.
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Actually ScottP just got the blueprints for BD's new quanta-cam.
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Doesn't look to be in condition to me. From my last couple of excursions up there though I think it can be climbed in much worse conditions if you bypass the gendarme. My next time up I'm not even going for the first gendy unless it looks to be in super condition.
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When are you headed down to the Valley?
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What happens in the Valley . . .
. . . is sprayed about on RC.com
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hah, yes. I'll have you know, DFA that not only have I been climbing the most sporto of routes at smith recently, I have even been receiving iBeta from the legendary hex-humping texplorer at times.
Just because there are no freshiez this year doesn't mean you can resort to name-calling. And if you must name call I'm an alien-humper.
Sea of Dreams?
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Do you ever notice some people never grow out of that annoying prepubescent stage?