Lyle_Knight

"A man who has never fallen knows nothing about heights." Enrique S???? "If lava is the blood of earth, rock then is the flesh, not to be bludgeoned to surrender, but caressed."Bonny Masson

The boss thing isn't a problem, more the time to figure out how to post a pic. I'll work on it...

I talked with the guy who took the whipper: Third pitch of Icy BC, 10m fall onto a screw. He went back up and finished 'er off. Good to know screws work, but better him than me... Mis-placed thanks at the start, I had nothing to do with the Fest other than provided the screen for Slawinsky's slides. Paul Malkinson co-ordinated the efforts this year. BTW: Tres Burly about 3/4 formed but still not quite there (maybe now?). Red Wall Wanderer (Copper Creek)looks like a big, fat, blue Rockies climb, go climb it (but avoid the cave - see Crack's note above). And the lime green puke about halfway up. -15C to -17C the last few nites, -10C during the day.-L

Thanks for the head's up, I'll post warnings around town. And I intent to bear witness to the carnage, I'm counting on a full train wreck. Maybe we can farm Ray and Dru's Sunday morning spew into a new mixed route... Oh yeah, +6C and rain all day today. The low last night was 4C. [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Lyle Knight ]

Climbed in Marble yesterday, had the whole place to myself 'til 3 Kamloops climbers showed up and offered a rope. It was -4C during the day, around -10C at night for the past week. Here's an update: Marble:Dale's Route (far left - mixed): Probably fatter than last year, looks like a small cam might go in the roof? There are 3 other smears forming to the left of Dale's that may go. The Dihedral (an oxymoron): This pillar is a bit hacked up but in good shape. Waite for Spring: Divided into two lines right now. The left line is leadable, a slung icicle near the bottom, then a few stubbies to get you there. The right line is a TR smearfest, getting into better ice on the upper half. Deeping Wall: Very thin and tough to get onto as the first few moves have been bashed away, but is still possible in thin ice for axes (none for feet). The steep part above is very thin, not really any chandeliers or cauliflower yet, just thin picks (nothing for gear). Actually looks really hard and fun! No Deductible: Forming left from normal position, and already thicker than last year. The bolts will be iced over soon. I'm guessing it's going to touch down this year. Icy BC: A bit hacked out but forming nicely (v. wet). Is realitively fat to the top (all three pitches). The Rest: The climbs associated with the third pitch all look to be in good shape! Fraser River: Draft Dodger and French Foreign Lesion trying to form but getting washed out by the afternoon sun. Cherry Ice: Looks pretty good from the other side of the Fraser (ie. it's coming in); Honeyman Falls: Needs about a week of cold weather (it was -10C in town last night), and clear the a.m.). It's pretty well formed from top to bottom, with a few spewing holes. It'll get fatnow. <---Ray crashing the Lillooet Fireman/ Policeman Xmas party <---the locals checkin' Ray out as he tries to steal their women <---Ray shortly after Merry Christmas!L

I've been using the Charlet screw clip and have no complaints, it's FAST and simple to use. Haven't had any problems with gear falling out, it's solid, and you don't even know it's there 'til you need it. It was $15 at MEC.

We felt it here (Lillooet), musta been a shaker!

rafael, Last I heard it was rated M5, but I'll check around. L

RAY, YOU pulled the NO-SHOW in the liver-bake! I had the bottles on ice, but maybe you were still rappin' off Plan B in the dark after a seiged epic ? CC, sorry about potential for confusion, on Phair and with the nick. L

RAY, where were you last weekend?? I hope to drown these fallacious rumours your spreading about me in a bottle of CC, but you were no where to be found! Climbed the first pitch of "A Phairwell to Arms" on Saturday, pretty snaky shape! Steep, light cauliflower and chandelier, really sustained and FUN! Like climbing Carl's Berg, then climbing it again. SWEEET! Except the whole canyon is deserted (except for a party of hollerin' Yanks (white 4Runner, Wash. plates, chains in the front!)) on It's Only Phair.

I had a note from Loren (CascadeClimber), he said they climbed there Saturday. Might be worth checking out. CascadeClimber@aol.com, I think. [This message has been edited by Lyle Knight (edited 02-13-2001).] [This message has been edited by Lyle Knight (edited 02-13-2001).]

Dale, I talked with a guy tonight who said the pin to the left of The Dihedral came out in his fingers. He estimates 5+ for the route. BTW: Ade has the Marble route order dialed. In addition, there is an overhanging corner just left of Deeping Wall, with a few manky 1/4" bolts. It sometimes has some random smears along the way. It's been TR'ed at M7 (5.11a/b). It was originally called "Pink Cadillac" by the Garry Brace (Kamloops) and friends, working on the FA (early '80's, I think). [This message has been edited by Lyle Knight (edited 02-09-2001).]

"Hi" from Lillooet. Ade gave me directions to the CC site, this is great! I've asked CASBC to use the BB format for the Lillooet Ice site, , so Adrian (Burke) doesn't have to pull together all the submissions for posting. Then the beta gets out to those who need it, before committing to the long drive. But until then, I'll try and post a copy of the update to you guys, as well. Mildly cold weather is here, and is supposed to stick around until at least Monday, here's the text: Today.. Cloudy with occasional snow. Snowfall amounts 2 to 4 centimetres. High near zero. Tonight.. Cloudy with a 60 percent chance of flurries. Low near minus 7. Friday.. Cloudy with a few flurries. High near plus 2. Saturday.. Mainly cloudy with flurries. Low near minus 8. High near minus 2. Probability of precipitation 70 percent. Sunday.. Mainly cloudy. Low near minus 7. High near minus 1. Monday.. Mainly sunny. Low near minus 10. High near minus 1. Normals for the period.. Low minus 5. High 3. We saw a skiff of snow last night, and it was -5C this morning. It's been -10C at night for the last week, and not quite OC during the day. Phair Creek Canyon Climbed there last Saturday (Feb 3), most climbs were FAT and BLUE! And we had the whole canyon to ourselves! Break the Marble habit, give those poor climbs a rest!! The Phair Creek road is plowed for probably the last time, it's drivable by 4wd or high-clearance 2wd w/ chains, and the ice is unreal. Original route beta at: http://www.bivouac.com/casbc/newclimb.htm It's Only Phair (7.5km, WI3, 60m): Wide and smooth for 20m, pinching into a notch, then rambling up. Walk off right, may need a rap. A Phairwell to Arms (7km, WI5+, 60m): Same shape as the Ice Fest Poster, beauty shape! Phair Game (4.5km, WI4 to 5, 40m): An aesthetic blue pillar to a ramp, hanging a half-hour above the road. Yeehah! Nectar of the Gods (4km, WI3, 35m): Ramble up the left-bearing ramp to 2 fun, short pitches. Airy Phairy (3.7km, WI3, rambly approach, 20m): The only sunbaked route in the drainage. Just Walkin' the Dog (3.5km, WI2/3, 90m): An new addition from Ade Miller and Susan Cripps, January 28, 2001. Hike 200m up the avalanche gully on the RHS of the road, just before the bridge at 3.5km. Climb the first step and then head rightwards up the ramp to a second longer step. Descend by rapping from trees and/ or threads. Sorry for the long first submission, had some catching up to do! Cheers, Lyle [This message has been edited by Lyle Knight (edited 02-08-2001).]