Retrosaurus
-
Posts
726 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Retrosaurus
-
-
Kiwi said:
...I was thinking of buying the annual pass at REI...
Baaaa! Baaaa!
-
When it is hot enough, you will use chalk and like it.
When you are dripping with sweat you will not forget it is there.
-
exactly
-
Demand royalties, Dru.
-
The Bowline on a bite technique is overly complicated and unnecessarily difficult to set up.
An easier technique that I use ( never seen it elsewhere) is to:
(1)put a locker on each bolt,
(2) clip in to one with a figure eight on a bight with a long bight
(so that the distance from the carabiner to knot itself is greater than the distance to the 2nd bolt),
(3) clove hitch the locker on the 2nd bolt and adjust to equalize.
Bam bam. Quick and clean. Requires the absolute minimum of gear.
You can put a biner or draw through the body of the figure eight knot to belay through also.
-
The Bowline on a bite technique is overly complicated and unnecessarily difficult to set up.
An easier technique that I use ( never seen it elsewhere) is to:
(1)put a locker on each bolt,
(2) clip in to one with a figure eight on a bight with a long bight (so that the distance from the carabiner to knot itself is greater than the distance to the 2nd bolt),
(3) clove hitch the locker on the 2nd bolt and adjust to equalize.
Bam bam. Quick and clean. Requires the absolute minimum of gear.
You can put a biner or draw through the body of the figure eight knot to belay through also.
-
Of course Dick never has done a first ascent.
-
I didn't bolt any cracks for it either.slaphappy said:Retrosaurus said:Just found out that the new book has Crack of Doom as 5.10b.
When I first climbed it before cams it was 5.9.
The last guidebook had it at 5.10a. I thought cams made routes easier.
Now it is 5.10b? Every other 5.10 route on Castle is harder. Devil's Fright at 5.10b is way harder . The Bone at 5.9 is not significantlly harder than Crack of Doom.
Whoever gave input to increase the rating must never have climbed other 5.10 routes on Castle.
At this rate I will be soloing 5.11 when I'm 50.
Maybe it will be easier when it gets bolted?
Not that I think Crack of Doom is 10b, but when VK asked for info for the new guide did you step up and offer any useful advice/beta/corrections? or did you offer your predictable selection of snide remarks? Thanks.
-
slaphappy said:Tod said:
Don't forget Burgundy Spire!
On the contrary, forget Burgundy Spire. The rock is lousy, the climbing mostly forgetable, the only real noteworthy thing about Burgundy is it's one of the harder Washington summits to obtain. (no "walk-ups") The other routes mentioned are far superior.
The North Ridge variation to the North Face route is stellar. Incredible positions and huge exposure on a solid knife edge ridge.
-
No. Just gotta be not stupid.
-
I thought that the reason they got hauled around in the black bag was because Jardine could not afford to patent them until The Yosemite Airplane.
-
Szyjakowski said:
shitdamn..your THAT old?!?
Not only am I that old, you are that young.
What would you know about the advent of friends?
Did your daddy tell you about it?
-
Do it yourself in 10 minutes for $1.50.
No special parts; no special tools.
-
Dane said:
Nice Mitch, but you aren't old enough to have climbed it before cams........you may have been alive and not using them, but the cams were available when you started climbing, unless there are two Mitch Merriman's still climbing in the NW.
OK, they were available somewhere but no one used them. They were definitely not proven trustworthy. They had moving parts and stuff.
"I thought cams made routes easier"Depends on the route, my young jedi...but you already knew that, right?
Yeah. Crack of Doom particularly.
For rating changes check out Easter Overhang...it went from 5.9 to 5.10c! Hell were were doing laps on it with nuts, even before EBs (they were an early brand of rock shoe retro boy
were easily available in the mid '70s. No question EO is easier on cams. ...and so will Crack of doom in the next edition of the guide. (Remember PAs?)
How the hell are you anyway?
Fulton said he see you once in awhile. But I am the first to admit...you two are getting old!A youthful 42.
I don't think I would recognize New Wave Dave without lycra. And it seems like I read a letter in in a climbing rag from a "Dane" about 10 years ago , bragging about being old and fat and out-of-shape and still cranking harder than the punks. Maybe it was 15 years ago? -
Any one want to participate in my bolt chopping clinic at The Pearly Gates?
-
Just found out that the new book has Crack of Doom as 5.10b.
When I first climbed it before cams it was 5.9.
The last guidebook had it at 5.10a. I thought cams made routes easier.
Now it is 5.10b? Every other 5.10 route on Castle is harder. Devil's Fright at 5.10b is way harder . The Bone at 5.9 is not significantlly harder than Crack of Doom.
Whoever gave input to increase the rating must never have climbed other 5.10 routes on Castle.
At this rate I will be soloing 5.11 when I'm 50.
Maybe it will be easier when it gets bolted?
-
Illustrates how a deficit in mental agility can be compensated for with persistence.
Hang in there Catbird. -
Don't listen to these bozos.
Keep your feet on the rock.
It is easier to keep your head above your feet that way.
-
Bill_Simpkins said:
... maybe keeping your feet off the rock till you get past the obstacle...
Keep your feet off the rock?
Really?
Where are you going to put them?
In your pack?
-
catbirdseat said:
...I ended up slipping, flipping and taking the skin off my left elbow...
Never had that problem. Maybe you could find a support group for spastics. Best you can get here is unbridled sarcasm and ridicule.
-
One thing you can count on: the USFS will do every thing it can to sell the commons back to the users on a per use basis. By selling to a concessionaire, they can process less transactions per $ collected. It is all about the money.
Fuck the USFS.
-
Dru said:
...deliberately located the bolts placed later so that when one is cruxing the bolt will be below foot level and the crux hence uncheatable...
-
I am sure that nearly all (or all) the bolts on Goat Dome were drilled on rappel.
The point that I was alluding to was that it is much more rewarding to make moves above your protection rather than below it. By today's standards a well-bolted route has a bolt at arms reach above every crux.
Glorified toproping.
There are dangerous runnouts and there are interesting runnouts.
Er, I mean, there used to be.
-
lummox said:
in my opinion youre confusing training with climbing.
i prefer not to fall on climbs. somethin about good style and shit.
I don't train.
I climb.
RULES SUCK
in Climbing Gyms
Posted
GYMS SUCK!!!