scot'teryx

Of course there is video! http://www.nwog.org/images/dc081802/summit.mpg & http://www.nwog.org/images/dc081802/sdug.mpg

I was up there this weekend and it was quite crowded. Here is my TR: Friday August 16 Headed up to Camp Muir Many of the folks we talked to on their way down mentioned turning around high up on the mountain due to bad snowbridges and crevasses. I did not like this news, as this was to be my wife's 3rd attempt on the mountain and I wanted success. We set up camp under gorgeous skies and no wind. Saturday August 17 John was to arrive today and bring the rope for our summit bid on Sunday morning. It was windy the entire day, even though there we clear skies, the wind made it unbearable to stand outside as it was quite cold. John arrived around 3pm and set up camp next to us. We got our plan for the summit, and got great beta from Glenn at the ranger station. He mentioned some junctions to watch for, and where to go on the cleaver, and where to move fast and such. Sunday August 18 (well, really saturday at 1130pm) The classic Suunto watch alarm whispered softly "beep beep" - the thing never works, but somehow we all wake up. We leave camp at 1230am and head out on the Cowlitz Glacier. There were about 2-3 small crevasse crossings which were small. We made our way up Cathedral Gap and continued on to Ingraham Flats. We meet some friends that had camped there but they were behind schedule so we continue on towards the dreaded "cleaver". We try to haul ass through the Ingraham Icefall, but the party in front of us is lost and cant get on the cleaver, and tension is high - we yell, but I don't think that helped. We finally get on the cleaver and make our way up what trail we think there is. RMI is 1.5 hours behind us, and we are almost in the pole position. After about on hour of scree hell we finally reach the top of the cleaver at 12,000 feet. It is real windy, and cold - we fuel up and continue on. We hit the junction and continue straight up. It's only 430 so we still have got an hour before full sunrise. We loose our position while on our break and get stuck in a bottleneck. The trail is ridiculously marked as it is a 6 inch to 2 foot trench at times, switchbacking back and forth. This continues on and on, and we have to wait for all the teams in front of us, and few let us pass by. After tedious switchbacks, we finally arrive at the summit at 7am. The wind has subsided. We turn around and begin the descent, we are the first ones to head down, and we have to cut switchbacks on crappy rime ice so that we can access the trail in between groups heading up. We finally get down to the cleaver and begin the descent. The other members decide that we descend another way than we came up, not too happy with this we head down the chossy pile of junk. We get lost several times, but find wands all over the place. It is real hot now so we were all a little cranky. We finally get off the cleaver and back on the Ingraham Glacier. We get back to Ingraham Flats and collapse for a few minutes. We head towards Cathedral Gap and traverse the Cowlitz back top Muir. We arrive at our camp at exactly 12 noon, 11.5 hours muir to muir. We rest for about 1/2 hour and pack up our camp and head down from Muir, getting a few glissades here and there we get back to the cars around 4pm. One small crevasse on the Muir snowfield at 9200 feet

While in the icicle today I got to watch this guy climb "Doin the Dishes 5.11D" at 8 mile rock. It is an awfully thin climb, and Kramar says, "Many try this technical tweaker, but few suceed" Whenever at 8 mile I always wished to see someone climb it, so it was like.......cool and stuff.

August 8, 2002 Hi Everyone, We are back down safely at base camp after an unsuccessful attempt on the summit of K2. On August 2 under clear skies we climbed to 6400 meters on the south face of K2. We found the snow conditions good with firm to knee deep snow. We found our stash of gear buried under a thick layer of ice and it took us a couple hours to recover our gear. The next day we climbed with heavy packs a delicate corniced snow and rock ridge. It took several hours. Due to the lateness of the day and the snow conditions we decided to camp at 6700 meters. Early morning on August 4, we traversed under a giant hanging serac. We were exposed to icefall for about 30 minutes before climbing slopes under the SSE ridge to gain the Cesen route (SSE Spur). The weather to the south looked bad with dark clouds forming over Chogolisa. We had a difficult time finding our way to the ridge and were moving slowly. With high winds coming off the summit and the uncertain weather we decided to turn around. We descended to the site of our 6700 meter camp. Due to poor snow conditions we decided to spend the night at here. On August 6, we descended to base camp. Our cook met us at the bottom with cold drinks and a warm greeting. We heard that the Mexican-Spanish team also came down on the 6th due to weather after making a carry to their 6900 meter camp. The weather fooled us, because the last two days it has been beautiful. We can't speculate on how high we would of climbed to if we would of continued. Unfortunately we will not have an opportunity for another try. We had lunch yesterday with the Japanese expedition. Wonderful folks with much climbing experience. Last night the Mexican - Spanish invited us for dinner. They plan to continue to climb on the SSE spur. We enjoyed our climbs on K2 and Broad Peak this season. We got a lot of climbing in with only a few additional rest days. We can't understand why everyone left base camp so early this season. Climbing in the Karakorum one must be patience and sometimes one must wait out the weather to be successful. The weather in August is looking good so far. We wish we could stay longer, but our porters are expected on the 9th of August. We look forward to our next climbing objective. There so many mountains to climb and many without permits or LOs to deal with. Christine

Are the 2 guys out there named Graham and ? out there? We saw you at the GNS yesterday before the thunderstorm Wanted to say thanks for letting us pass you.

quote: Is there a hut to smoke in on Vesper? [/QB]C'mon Greg, you've been up there before! Remember when you were up there with that cougar last month? You must have been really lonely that week or not getting any because the cougar seemed to like it [ 08-05-2002, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ]

noticed lots of people hauling gear up to do the north face route, but not understandable as it was wet the whole day. We actually wound up bouldering down in the Weden Basin where Devin did a FA of "Wedenization" :: V0 Cool problems all over that basin, I really want to make sure to get up there on a dry day to do the NF route, and then play on the boulders on the way down

Did the walk up this Sunday on Vesper in wet conditions - it was snowing on top at 6214'

Posted on the wta.org site::: Aug 03, 2002 Three Fingers #641 Well, this is my second attempt to do Three Fingers. It's only been one month and I haven't come to my senses yet. This time my two sons and I decided we would go light and mountain bike the rode past the washout, and trail run it up to Goat Flats and knock that thing out. Crossing the road #41 washout was easy, even with mtn bikes - then the steady grind (10.3miles/2hrs) to the standard Goat Flats trail head. The thought of biking the trail crossed our mind and only lasted 200yds. That trail is the worst shape I have ever seen it - really needs work. Not only the standard root issue, but lots of windfall and winter erosion. So after parking the bikes we slogged up to the flats only losing the trail once on snow just before Saddle Lake. The Goat Flats were as beautiful as ever, and we could see the Three Fingers lookout - but could not get to it. With the heavy snow year, the glacier and snow have blocked the climbers path and it is very treachous. We couldn't even make Tin Can Gap, it would have taken some pickets and rope to make me feel better about it. Anyways, another failed attempt - and if they don't fix that road for a year or so, things will only get worse on that trail. Really to bad as it is an awesome place.

FYI - Forest Road #41 has been washed out since this winter, and they planned on reopening the road in September, but now it seems they are not going to bother with it at all this year. The wash out is at 7.5 miles out of the 16 miles or so to the TH. From what I have heard from eyewitness accounts, it is like the Grand Canyon where the wash out is. More info: http://66.155.42.150/advscripts/mbs_trl_rpt.asp?w=drd

All they have to know is enough that will get them into trouble. I think the media sometimes goes by what the parents say or friends, like; "Yeah they are experienced" and the media doesn't put down what else they say like ;"They go up Mt Pilchuck almost once a month!" I'm just gapping out at work

Rainier - Emmons 3rd times a charm I guess. Damn slushy and hot didn't see any cougars, but heard of one in the steam vents, unless that was Dru blowing out smoke?

7/2/02 The trail is snow free up to Weden Basin, then it is snow all the way to the base of headlee pass, then dirt 3/4 of the way up to the pass. There has been some serious avalanche action up there this year, as the snow you walk on in the basin is covered with tree debris http://www.nwog.org/images/headleepass070202/008.jpg[img/] Good snow all the way up to where the snow ends and the where the samll moat is It is just a short scramble up 3rd class dirt and heather with a little bit of exposure, and for some reason I could not find the sign at the top of the pass this time. Our dog would not get off the snow and jump the moat and do the dirt scramble So we had to stay at the pass and have lunch and then return down the pass, but got a nice view of Vesper on a perfect day The downclimb was alot of fun The traverse after headlee pass was still all snow, but could not tell if it was posthole hell or not on that talus slope or not. Have fun, let me know how it goes Are you going to do the north face?

quote: Originally posted by Greg W:

quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: scot'assholeia WOW! That's freakin creative "Son of...." I got nothing

So you guys can dish it out but you can't take it? I make one remark that was in real poor taste (like no one else has ever done that around here) I guess that when I decided that I needed to come up with something harsh to a reply from a a seious post that I made, all I got was shitballs. I told myself, "What would most of the morons on this site say?" Goes to show what kind of losers and what morals most of you have around here. If you must kick me off then go for it, I could live on in my gaper world. Most of the replies I get from the usual posters are all crap anyhow. I HIKED MT SI IN MY PLASTICS

"Did you notice that the bolts were gone also, or just the hangers? If I had glued the hangers back onto the rock sans bolts would you have merrily clipped them?" There were 2 bolts that still were sticking out of the rock that had no hangers. I guess a lemming tried to pull the bolts out. Your kid got tired? What a freakin wussie - maybe he was bleeding from the crotch as well, must have been time to change his panties. MITCH MERRIMAN IS A LEMMING

quote: Originally posted by Dave Schuldt: Scott- you can only begin to understand when you have smoked enough pot, full understand will come when you drop acid. I have done my share for sure! Dropping 10 sugar cubes with a guy named "Grateful Ted" on Haight street in 91 should count for something right? "Never drop anything less than a 10 strip"

quote: Wrong wrong wrong. I'm using the bolt hangers for a new smoking device that I hope to have perfected by next ski season. I'm going to test it at the Muir hut. Ya want to come Scott? I'm so there! How does this smoking hanger device work? [ 07-01-2002, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: scot'teryx ]

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: [QB]Ha ha ha Scotty you uptight bastard. I just wanted to let you know it was me who took those hangers off the bolts you described. QB] I knew it was you, I was guessing you needed those hangers to bolt your favorite route at Bruce's Boulder, since that 5.0 crack needs some sort of pro

quote: Relax, you're too young to be a crusty, intolerant prick (I checked). Have one and chill. Greg WMaybe I am young, but crusty? Very tolerant........shit - I still post here don't I? Always knowing that a serious question will become a thread of past post resurecctions (sp?) .............and I gape on

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Scot'BrandNameHere: I hate to resurrect your claim to fame thread (not really), but if you're boasting about dropping acid why would you give a shit about some dudes toking up in the Muir Hut? Sounds kind of stupid to this gaper. Greg W Because I grew up

Just a quick question: After just finally getting into trad (way too late), I did my first trad lead this weekend at Clamshell Cave, and once I got to the top I noticed that the hangers were missing off of the bolts. What is that all about? I understand the clipping of bolts by trad climbers, especially after a climb that was meant to be trad, was turned into a sport route. i.e. - Little Bridge Creek Rock "Arete" 5.8 Was recently bolted this winter (I was told) because gear looks difficult on that side of the face, and I loved that climb as a sport route, but we went back there this weekend, and all but 2 of the top hangers are gone - and the anchor hangers were in place. It makes sense to me if the original setter thought it was trad, then that's cool, but why leave the top 2 hangers? So with that info, why were the hangers missing from the bolts at the top of the 5.7 crack at clamshell? The 2 hangers at the top of the climb were still there as there is no gear placements in that thin section. Any info on this topic to help me better understand would be appreciated Terima Kasih

just curious as the last update on the rainier site is dated the 19th, and I heard from someone the other day that it was getting real thin up there. gotta get up there and toke out on the summit for all the gapers here on the board thanks for any info

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