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Erik, As a guide I get this question often, and would like to answer your question in a more constructive way (rather than telling horror stories and spreading common misconceptions). The first thing you should understand about glaciers is the difference between a “wet” and a “dry” glacier. A wet glacier is a glacier (or section of a glacier) that still has seasonal snow on it. A dry glacier is a glacier (or section of a glacier) that has no seasonal snow on it (i.e., bare ice). The rules on when to rope up are purely a personal choice, but the following are generally agreed to by most professional climbers and/or guides: · If you are traveling on a “wet” glacier there is still a chance of hidden crevasses as well as the possibility to self arrest (in seasonal snow). There fore we rope up approximately 25-35 feet between climbers (this measurement applies to the cascades and may be different in other ranges depending on the size of crevasses). While traveling roped you should maintain a comfortably snug line between you and your partners (the rope should make a smiley face between you and your partner) · If you are traveling on “dry” glacier it is ok and often times more desirable and safer to travel un-roped. The reason being is that you can clearly see all the dangers, and you should for the most part be able to rely upon proper technique (i.e., French/German technique, and proper ice axe use) to avoid falling into a hole. The reason traveling roped can be dangerous on a dry glacier is that if one person falls, and there is no form of ice protection or a proper belay it is very unlikely that you will be able to self-arrest and hold the fall in ice. Often times you want the security or a rope on dry glacier (such as when you climb through a steep ice fall) but then it is best to use ice pro (screws, thread through, bollard, natural features) and proper belay techniques which will hold the max anticipated load. Last but not least, if you are unsure about how to properly rope up, rescue, use crampons and ice axe properly, and judge objective and subjective danger, I would highly recommend obtaining proper instruction from a trained professional. Reading books is a great start, but as you have learned from this dialogue leave many unanswered questions. Regards, and be safe. Tom Dancs