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And this is why at times I still do. Sorry to overlook the positive comments. As far as the route goes, I believe for fit parties it is under ten hour car to car day. Great idea if you want to climb some moderate but exciting water ice/mixed terrain. You can approach via regular south side or through the glacier bellow, your choice. We had 8 screws. 2 were used in the anchor and 6 for the pitch (50M of ice). Personally, if I had a way to know how this pitch would be before actually doing it, I would bring couple of more screws, but that's just me. I used a Red (1) BD camalot, and Orange ultralight metolious cam as well (yellow metolious was used in one spot for our simul climb above). Belay was set up in the couloir (45-50 degree snow/neve coulor, a lot milder than it seemed from Sunshine) above from two pickets. Did not see any pin scars anywhere, or any opportunities to use pins- Rock is crap. Helmet is required. I actually think this will be repeated, the climbing is great. The setting is awesome. Here in Sierra people would go through hell to climb a mixed pitch like this. PS: If I would do it again I would also bring some rock shoes and climbed up the Cathedral spire up the obvious hand crack (5.9-5.10b judging by the look of it).