Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support

Supporting Sponsors

Pro Mountain Sports
Thermawrap Jacket 8.8oz

Who's Online
1 registered (Gowri), 36 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
27496 Members
50 Forums
101045 Topics
1148543 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 118
KaskadskyjKozak 112
JasonG 106
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
wayne 78
AlpineK 73
telemarker 71
G-spotter 57
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#695330 - 06/18/07 08:39 PM [TR] Conness/North Peak - Glacier/NW Ridge - 6/17
off_the_hook Offline

Registered: 05/15/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 90 Photos: 13448
Loc: San Carlos, CA
Trip: Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge

Date: 6/18/2007

Trip Report:
At 5:25 am Sunday morning I set out from Saddlebag Lake to the Northwest Ridge of North Peak. I caught early morning light at the basin below North Peak and stopped many times for reflection photos.

The Northwest Ridge of North Peak was a sweet route with nice exposure and views down to Upper MaCabe Lake. It was short though, and I was atop the summit of North Peak at 7:55 am.

View of the Northwest Ridge of North Peak and Sawtooth Ridge in the distance.

After resting on the summit, I headed down toward the Conness Glacier. I wasted some time figuring out a route through steep slabs (hoping I could avoid elevation loss) when should have just went around.

Once on the Conness Glacier, I cruised up to the couloirs that went to the East Ridge. I chose the middle couloir sneaking around a bergshrund around the far right side (photo below). The couloir had hard snow so I ascended carefully with my trail runner/crampon set-up.

Once atop the coulior it was a short walk to the summit of Conness, arriving at 10 am. On top of Conness, I enjoyed the views with a climber who had done the NW Ridge of North Peak earlier in the morning and soloed the North ridge of Conness while I did the Conness glacier.

View of Lyell Canyon.

View from Conness to Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne

View to Half Dome and Cloudsrest.

I left the summit and headed down the East Ridge and then into the Alpine lake/Carnegie Institute valley. The basin was gorgeous, but the mosquitoes kept me moving. The walk back up to Saddlebag was a bit of a slog and I arrived at the trailhead at 12:10, 6 hours and 45 minutes after starting.

Gear Notes:
Ice axe and crampons used and needed on Conness Glacier route, especially in couloir.

Approach Notes:
Trail in good shape.

Help Support CascadeClimbers

Delta LT Jacket - Mens
Save 34%

Mojo Zip Chalk Bag
Save 20%

Diamond Mine Belt
Save 26%

Rox Pack
Save 25%

Petzl - Meteor Helmet
Save 20%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#695333 - 06/18/07 08:40 PM Re: [TR] Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge 6/18/2007 [Re: off_the_hook]
Weekend_Climberz Offline

Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3403
TRs: 4 Photos: 139
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
Damn, nice photos.

Where's all the rain and clouds though
Weekday Sprayer

#695353 - 06/18/07 09:38 PM Re: [TR] Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge 6/18/2007 [Re: Weekend_Climberz]
dbconlin Offline
addicted to

Registered: 11/06/00
Posts: 584
TRs: 9 Photos: 19
Loc: tacoma
I spent an entire summer backpacking through that part of the park, mostly off-trail and cross-country, for a job. Unfortunately, I did not carry a camera.

Thanks for bringing back those memories.

#695405 - 06/19/07 07:12 AM Re: [TR] Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge 6/18/2007 [Re: dbconlin]
skitchmo Offline

Registered: 10/16/05
Posts: 38
TRs: 1 Photos: 4
Loc: Bow, WA
Thanks for posting those pics, I miss that country terribly. Brings back memories of terrifying lightning, a fun jaunt up North Peak Couloir, a relaxing fat splief and an unexpected navy helicopter popping over the ridge...

#695431 - 06/19/07 08:29 AM Re: [TR] Conness/North Peak - Glacier/NW Ridge - 6/17 [Re: off_the_hook]
rhyang Offline

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 328
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: formerly pdx, now sjc
Nice work The north ridge of Conness is a great solo, though I personally wimped out and rapped the 5.6 downclimb Didja get any shots of the right couloir on North Peak ?


Moderator:  chucK 
© 2000-10 · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top