Buying Gear Online?

Use our price tool to find the best price on any piece or gear or clothing. Purchases using this tool support

Supporting Sponsors Articles *READ ME!*
Intro to Ice Climbing
Intro to Back Country Skiing
Metolius Offset Review
Equipment for Alpinism
Showcase : Integral Designs Reflexion Bivy
Who's Online
2 registered (keenwesh, Good2Go), 72 Guests and 0 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
25646 Members
52 Forums
95393 Topics
1120199 Posts

Max Online: 627 @ 12/18/06 12:02 AM
Top TR Contributors
ivan 110
tvashtarkatena 99
off_the_hook 90
danhelmstadter 88
KaskadskyjKozak 84
JasonG 73
Feck 67
telemarker 67
wayne 60
G-spotter 56
Topic Options
Rate This Topic
#695330 - 06/18/07 08:39 PM [TR] Conness/North Peak - Glacier/NW Ridge - 6/17
off_the_hook Offline

Registered: 05/15/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 90 Photos: 8904
Loc: San Carlos, CA
Trip: Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge

Date: 6/18/2007

Trip Report:
At 5:25 am Sunday morning I set out from Saddlebag Lake to the Northwest Ridge of North Peak. I caught early morning light at the basin below North Peak and stopped many times for reflection photos.

The Northwest Ridge of North Peak was a sweet route with nice exposure and views down to Upper MaCabe Lake. It was short though, and I was atop the summit of North Peak at 7:55 am.

View of the Northwest Ridge of North Peak and Sawtooth Ridge in the distance.

After resting on the summit, I headed down toward the Conness Glacier. I wasted some time figuring out a route through steep slabs (hoping I could avoid elevation loss) when should have just went around.

Once on the Conness Glacier, I cruised up to the couloirs that went to the East Ridge. I chose the middle couloir sneaking around a bergshrund around the far right side (photo below). The couloir had hard snow so I ascended carefully with my trail runner/crampon set-up.

Once atop the coulior it was a short walk to the summit of Conness, arriving at 10 am. On top of Conness, I enjoyed the views with a climber who had done the NW Ridge of North Peak earlier in the morning and soloed the North ridge of Conness while I did the Conness glacier.

View of Lyell Canyon.

View from Conness to Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne

View to Half Dome and Cloudsrest.

I left the summit and headed down the East Ridge and then into the Alpine lake/Carnegie Institute valley. The basin was gorgeous, but the mosquitoes kept me moving. The walk back up to Saddlebag was a bit of a slog and I arrived at the trailhead at 12:10, 6 hours and 45 minutes after starting.

Gear Notes:
Ice axe and crampons used and needed on Conness Glacier route, especially in couloir.

Approach Notes:
Trail in good shape.

Help Support CascadeClimbers

Arcteryx Zenta AR Glove
Save 20%

HyperFlow Gravity Kit
Save 20%

B.D.V. Jacket - Men's
Save 30%

Shelter Wash and Restore
Save 20%

Motus Crew LS - Women's
Save 50%

Want to browse more deals? Check out our price comparison and deal finder tool!

#695333 - 06/18/07 08:40 PM Re: [TR] Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge 6/18/2007 [Re: off_the_hook]
Weekend_Climberz Offline

Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3403
TRs: 4 Photos: 139
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
Damn, nice photos.

Where's all the rain and clouds though
Weekday Sprayer

#695353 - 06/18/07 09:38 PM Re: [TR] Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge 6/18/2007 [Re: Weekend_Climberz]
dbconlin Offline
addicted to

Registered: 11/06/00
Posts: 584
TRs: 9 Photos: 19
Loc: tacoma
I spent an entire summer backpacking through that part of the park, mostly off-trail and cross-country, for a job. Unfortunately, I did not carry a camera.

Thanks for bringing back those memories.

#695405 - 06/19/07 07:12 AM Re: [TR] Mount Conness/North Peak - Conness Glacier/NW Ridge 6/18/2007 [Re: dbconlin]
skitchmo Offline

Registered: 10/16/05
Posts: 38
TRs: 1 Photos: 4
Loc: Bow, WA
Thanks for posting those pics, I miss that country terribly. Brings back memories of terrifying lightning, a fun jaunt up North Peak Couloir, a relaxing fat splief and an unexpected navy helicopter popping over the ridge...

#695431 - 06/19/07 08:29 AM Re: [TR] Conness/North Peak - Glacier/NW Ridge - 6/17 [Re: off_the_hook]
rhyang Offline

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 328
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: formerly pdx, now sjc
Nice work The north ridge of Conness is a great solo, though I personally wimped out and rapped the 5.6 downclimb Didja get any shots of the right couloir on North Peak ?


Moderator:  chucK 
© 2000-10 · Cookies · Board Rules · Mark all read ·
Powered by UBB.threads™ · Pimped by: Chinooktc · Top