Ice climbing question

[Braydon]

When you are placing your ice screws how far away do you want to place them from your tool placement or does it not matter? I haven't had this question answered for me in any books but it seems like the fracture lines from the tools will decrease the screws strength if you have it too close to a tool placement.

[mike1]

True. I think placing screws at or around your chest height and out a foot or two is best. Typically the tools are 2' to 3' couple feet higher (given you are on a relatively straight forward climb). Conditions dictate.

[vanisle]

it doesn't really matter how far away you tool is when you place a screw if the ice is good. .....obviously don't place it on a fracture line or shitty ice. Believe me you will place the screw just to your side at gut height. if its a hard route you wont have time to ponder anything else. screw are poor gear at best anyway. that's why many great ice climbers NEVER fall. Also I have asked a few ACMG climbing guides if its OK to place the screw in an old hole that is starting to close up. they usually say its fine. also they say don't fall.

[genepires]

I have heard of more people falling onto ice screws in the last 4 years or so and the screws have held up very well. I would bet that some of them were even near a previous tool placement as tools are placed every 2 feet or so on the way up. so chances are every screw placed is within a couple of feet of a previous tool placement. An yet, the screws held. Probably a good idea to give tool holes some distance but don't go out of your way to do so. Give them a foot or so and keep it in good ice.

 

The only story of an ice screw coming out on a lead fall was on pan dome falls. But that whole thing sucks for ice anyway.

 

oh yeah, don't fall on ice.