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[TR] Mt. Stuart - Complete North Ridge 7/7/2013

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Trip: Mt. Stuart - Complete North Ridge


Date: 7/7/2013


Trip Report:


Vernman23 and I climbed the CNR Sunday from a bivy in Mountaineer’s basin. We found all pitches dry. Plenty of snow left at the 8200 notch. The north face above the Icefall Glacier is currently sheading it’s winter coat. Lots snow slab blocks were sliding off all day and night.





The party ahead of us was originally planning to do the Girth Pillar by crossing over from the lower North Ridge but opted not to because of the falling slabs.





We made it to the top in time for the afternoon thunderheads to form. We wasted little time heading down but we still got caught mid-way down Sherpa couloir with hail, rock fall, and lightning strikes on nearby ridges.





We found shelter in a dry protected alcove and waited out the storm here:




We down climbed the schrund on a steep snow bridge on the far west (skier’s left).


When we got back Mountaineer's basin was flooded and the creek was running brown.




Note: mosquitos are nearly Alaska bad in the Mountaineer’s basin. Also note: don’t leave your shoes out at night if you want them to be in one piece in the morning.





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Hope to duplicate this weekend (w/o the thunderstorm). Are crampons/axe advised for getting down the Sherpa? Thanks for the TR.

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I was glad to have them. The couloir was 1000ft of 40 degree sloppy snow with the schrund looming below. The bridge over the schrund was also pretty steep.

Edited by Sidviscous

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