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wfinley

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About wfinley

  • Rank
    veteran
  • Birthday 11/30/99

Converted

  • Homepage
    www.akmountain.com
  • Location
    Los Anchorage
  1. RIP Fred Beckey

    Rest in peace Mr. Beckey. May your stories be told on bivy ledges for hundreds of years. May your corniced ridges terrify climbers for generations to come.
  2. Nice writeup and rant. Climbers should surrender their right to complain about crowds when they choose to climb one of the 50-classics on a nice summer weekend. You're on one of the 50 classics - crowds and inconsiderate climbers are expected. Try climbing in France where passing climbers will use your fingers as handholds as they pass .... or in Nepal where they'll use your body as a rap anchor.
  3. How many times do you resole your boots?

    Thanks. Didn't even think about ebay!
  4. [TR] Four Days in Boston Basin 8/1/2017

    The NPS says models certified by IGBA are approved. The list of approved canisters is here: http://igbconline.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/170811_Certified_Products_List.pdf Specifically... Ursak Model S29 AllWhite & Model AllMitey
  5. Trip: Four Days in Boston Basin Date: 8/1/2017 Trip Report: Anchorage is having a normal summer (rainy cloudy crappy) so we bought tickets to Seattle. Flew out Thursday afternoon, were at the Marblemount Ranger Station at 10pm where we scored the #2 ticket (thanks to CC.com for the numbers tip!) and then crashed for a few hours of sleep. Back to the ranger station in the AM where we scored a permit for 4 nights at Boston Basin. Then up to Boston Basin where it was sunny and hot and the horseflies were hungry for human flesh. A nice night of sleep and then the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. There was only one other party on it that morning and they were well ahead of us so we had the route to ourselves for both the up and the down. The next day we climbed Sahale Peak and on our last day we tried Torment but we turned around right before the summit ridge because we were tired and didn't want to risk a bivy which would have meant we'd miss our flight. Nothing to say about these routes that hasn't already been said a million times so I'll just share some select photos. If you're interested in seeing all my photos I've uploaded them to my site . This was a great trip and I've fallen in love with the North Cascades. Scheming on ways to get down there every time it starts raining. Route notes: - if the rangers say the west couloir is out, listen to them. - you can get off forbidden with 1 rope if you keep going down the gully instead of jumping across to the far (climbers right) gully partially down the 3rd rap. Note that the last rap station is pretty much in the middle of the gully and you're really exposed to rockfall if anyone is above you. - the anchor on the top of Sahale is gone. We downclimbed but people descending the other side used my anchor to rap down to the anchors on the E side. - you can get off the S ridge of Torment with one rope as long as you do the traversing raps and hunt around for the intermediate anchors. - the marmots are vicious. - the NPS has approved the latest version of the Ursack . Depending on what ranger you get they will argue with you about using it - but it's been approved. * * * The camp views were pretty awesome. The rangers told us the couloir was out but I didn't believe them. There was a nice moat 1/3 of the way up which required some wet crampon rock moves and a creative picket aid move. Next time I'll listen the rangers. Top of the couloir. The weather here rocks! I took about a zillion photos on this route. These guys were on the summit after climbing the E Ridge and shouted "Take a photo". I did and I'm posting it here in case anyone knows them. My wife at the notch. There was much less cursing that I imagined there would be. LOST Sapphire on the west ridge. Reward! There was lots of cursing and weeping and wailing when my wife showed me her wedding ring. It was me doing the cursing and weeping. Damn Party of 5 coming down the gullies well after dark. The next morning I told them I took some photos of their epic and they shouted "IT WASN'T AN EPIC!!" Sahale Peak - super fun mellow climb. This is why you shouldn't start glacier climbs at 2pm. 19 people on Sahale.... and why you shouldn't start glacier climbs at 6am. Double exposure showing how much this route traverses. My wife doing the traversing downclimb / rap off Torment. Goodbye sunny granite. We'll be back!
  6. It shows. The images are excellent. I admire people who suck it up and carry their full dSLR setup on an extended climbing trips.
  7. Beautiful photos. What model camera / lens did you carry?
  8. How many times do you resole your boots?

    Thanks. Uppers are mostly sound. Waterproof is questionable... but I think it might be more a matter of leaking around the rand than the actual leather.
  9. How many times do you resole your boots?

    The uppers are in decent shape. I use them enough to justify a resole... I'm more concerned about how many times I can resole before the boot self destructs.
  10. Considering sending in my (La Sportiva Nepal) boots to Dave Page for a third resole. This time they'll need a full rand / sole rebuild. The boots are almost 15 years old and while they see a fair amount of use... they don't see that much given I have plastics for the winter and lighter boots for the summer. How many times do you guys resole your boots before deciding it's time to buy a new pair?
  11. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    ursaeagle... I believe these pix are of you. One looking down at you from the summit and one from the start of your "not an epic" descent.
  12. Questions about N Cascades Permits

    Nice tip. Thx!!
  13. Clogged MSR Whisperlite International

    I've sent at least 3 stoves back to MSR over the years for a full rebuild. $35 will pretty much get you a new stove after they're done with the cleanup. Well worth it.
  14. Questions about N Cascades Permits

    Thanks for the info. In regards to forbidden in a day... I'm sure it's doable, but when I'm unfamiliar with area and don't even know what the trailhead looks like, long days have a tendency to turn into late night snuggles on a rock ledge.
  15. Questions about N Cascades Permits

    So tempting. We have so little shrubbery and choss up here it would be a novelty.
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