Sabertooth

Cool, great photos Dane!

Anyone ever try that huge juggy roof route Gyno Boy 10D/11A on the Upper Fifth Canyon wall? Looks cool. How is it?

Yeah, it seems obvious to climb lingerie with your left foot stemming off the Sex Party crack. I'm sure it makes it a lot easier. The same with Sex Party. Seems a lot easier is you stem way out to the right. If you don't stem, it is a pure handrcrack with no feet in many spots. Wouldn't it be harder than 5.8? Here is a photo from Eric and Lucie's website of stemming Sex Party...

Fearless Leader on the Garden Wall is an awesome route. It puts every other route I've hopped on out there to shame. Best easy route: Lost Arrow Spur.

Dane, did you like Slave Labor (the big roof route at the far end of the wall)? That is supposed to be the best route at the crag.

Even though it is really easy, I just love Party in Your Pants. The Steel Grille, Bob's Your Uncle, and Theresa's Lingerie are nice too. I haven't tried any of the ones you mentioned yet. PP, it's interesting about the grades, because I've talked to two people who said that Jihad was one of the hardest 11a's they have ever done. The rock at Middle East Wall is by far the best at Vantage, I can see why 2 of Dane's favorites are over there.

1. Don Quixote 2. The Dihedral 3. Ron's Climb 4. The Diagonal 5. Twin Cracks

Yeah, that sucks. Fortunately, they never go back to the Secondary Face or Don Quixote Face. It is quieter and nicer back there anyways. Z crack is a good route. Too bad you didn't hop on Don (the overhanging double cracks). That's the best route I've done in the Spokane area.

Cool. Did you like R.H. Factor at Tum Tum? (the 4 star route) What did you climb at Minne? Anything you liked?

Ice axe and crampons is all you need. DPS was refering to the Early Winters Couloir on the east side between NEWS and SEWS, which is much harder. Here is a photo of it.

I'm pretty sure there is nothing below 5.11 at China Bend. Almost all of the routes are 12s and 13s. It's a long drive, when there are better choices in town. If you like moderate sport (5.8 to 5.11s), Post Falls, in Quemlin Park, is the place to be. There are just tons of good quality sport climbs on nice granite over there. Another place to visit in Dishman. A small place, but it has the best quality rock in the area. Most of the routes are 11s. There is a 5.8, 2 9s, and a 10a over there too. The ratings are very stiff old school at Dishman. The route Chicken Spread (5.9) is the hardest 5.9 I've ever done. Another spot that is very popular in town is Deep Creek. The rock is fractured angular basalt. The walls are overhanging with lots of stuff to pinch. I don't particularly care for the rock type, but the gym crowd loves it.

If you are looking for juggy limestone with a larger variety of grades, check out Washington Rock (Metaline Falls). They have some nines to warm up on plus a bunch of tens and elevens, in addition to stuff up to 13+. Not all really hard stuff, like China Bend or Marcus. This cover photo was taken from a route at Metaline Falls.

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Bring a very high clearance vehicle in you take the standard approach. Lots of good info here... http://www.summitpost.com/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/2048

Good point on the trad. I should be thankful for Minne's trad routes, and the couple over at Dishman. It would be nice to have some more real crack climbs, though. There are many more local climbs that are sport in the Spokane area than Trad. Oh well. Nice post, as usual.