[TR] Mazama Ice- 2/20/2006

[scott_johnston]

Climb: Mazama Ice-

 

Date of Climb: 2/20/2006

 

Trip Report:

The ice in Mazama is best in the locals' memory right now so get out there. Not everything is in but the stuff that is in is great!

 

In Goat Wall creek:

 

The 2-3 pitch Standard is fat and solid. Its normal WI3/4 X rating is now just WI3+ since the ice is so good.

 

The Coffee climb area is pretty good. From L to R:

 

*Mr Coffee WI5 is not in

*The Percolator is not in

*Next big column to the R: Espresso is fat and WI4+/5- right now. We finally cleaned all the dead brush at the top so we could lead it and you can safely top out.

*Cafe au Lait is a very good short 3+/4

*Decafe is the easy WI2/3 gully at far R and is in well.

 

Except for Mr Coffe these are climbs of 40'-70'. This year they are shorter due to snow pack at the base.

 

These also face south so no telling how long they will last. It has been in the single digits each am so they may hold up a while.

 

Goat's Beard is not in.

 

Gate Creek. No word.

 

The Dagger, visible on the way to the Standard is not touching down yet and the WI6 crux looks skinny compared to the only time it has been climbed.

 

The Czech Gully is filled with snow and the mixed climb that Steve House and I put up in there a couple of years ago is mostly coverd in avy debris. The chockstone has no tunnel behind this year due to all the snow.

 

Get out while the getting is good.

 

Scott Johnston

Edited February 21, 2006 by scott_johnston

[goatboy]

Have you climbed Decafe lately, Scott?

 

Thanks for the great info.

[scott_johnston]

Goatboy;

 

No have not climbed Decaf lately but did get a very good look at it 3 days ago while climbing nearby. It is in super well and there are many options once in it to make it more or less difficult. Cord should still be in place on trees for raps but bring some in case.

 

Be advised we are having a major warm up the last two days. I advise waiting for the next cold snap before planning an ice climbing trip to Mazama. Most of the climbs are fat so should survive a few days of warming no problem.

 

Scott

[layton]

thanks few posting scott!

[layton]

i mean "for"

[goatboy]

Sounds great, Scott - thanks a lot!

[tazman]

does anyone know the current conditions of goat wall creek ice and possibly describe the approach much appreciated

[TrogdortheBurninator]

This thread is only 3 days old. I doesn't get much more current than that. The approach depends on the climb, but basically you park on the road and walk up hill to the climbs. Some climbs can be seen from the road, others are hidden.

[scott_johnston]

Best approach is to park at what would be a wide pullout about 3.1 miles up valley from the Maz store. This is the place you would park in summer for several GW rock routes such as Restless Native, Sisyphus, Inspiration. Said pullout has not been plowed so you'll have to park 100m beyond on the narrow shoulder on the river side. Scout a round a bit over the plow berm and you'll see remnants of a boot track. We got several inches of snow this am so it might be a little obscure. The track follows (a not too obvious in winter) old mining road for several hundred meters before it spits you out into a large scree field. From there go straight uphill. The obvous drainage to the L is GW ck. You are heading up and L to the mouth of it. The first gully on R is the Double Standard, pretty snow now but fun WI3. Next climb on R 150m uphill is the Standard. Continue uphill 2-300m to next gully on R where the Coffee Climbs are.

 

Pretty firm snow on approach means you don't need skis or snow shoes. Minimal postholing.

 

Approach is 30min max.

 

BTW: the skiing is excellent again. Two feet of new and 24F this morning near WA pass.

 

Scott

[NYC007]

how is the ice holding up, up there?

[scott_johnston]

Most of the climbs are still in good shape.

 

Scott

[NYC007]

mmmmm..