East Coaster Heading West

[Blacklab]

I am planning some climbing in the cascades in two weeks. I am finalizing on gear and had a few questions. Any input would be appreciated!

 

We are planning a ptarmigan traverse from north to south and

hope to do one camp on dome glacier (conditions permitting) with the possibility of the first night being between kool-aid and spider-formidable col. Pack weights are currently about 45 lbs for 6 days with the shovel and 8 wands but without the weather radio, 2nd ice tool, and ice screws.

 

1) 8 Wands for marking out camp on the dome glacier excessive? I am thinking these can be left out since we are planning a one-way trip. Or should I move on up toward the ridge and attempt to stake out on the rocks/sandy ledges? (Fairly long 3 person tent)

 

2) Snow shovel necessary this late in the season (1 per party of three)? I can't think of any reason for it (other than getting dumped on in Aug). We didn't use it on the Sulfphide or in Boston Basin in Aug of 2013.

 

3) Thinking about leaving the weather radio behind and leaving the forecasting to the intial report, the clouds, and barometer (will be out for about 6 days) (it is a HAM tri-band transmitter as well, but we will have a spot device on us). Might help planning ascents, torn on this one.

 

4) We will probably carry 2nd tools (maybe only 1 or 2), if considering dropping onto to Chickamin and exiting to canyon lake. This adds about 1 lb per tool. Thinking this might be useful to deal with the southern portion and any moats getting on and off nearby peaks. Thoughts on this?

 

5) Given your conditions this year, I am guessing ice screws are out for the first week of August, but carrying 1 or 2 is not a problem. Possible use (protecting 5am descents out of spider-formidable col to the south and off dome high camp onto the chicakmin glacier)??

 

6) Any of you sleep on glacier snow with just one z-rest pad? I am considering leaving the inflatable out. No problem sleeping on hard surfaces here (do this often for summer trips). In the winter in the northeast I have gotten away with the old guide-rest pads ~1 inch thick and more recently down-filled Expeds. I tend to sleep warm. Based on Rainier recreational forecast, night time temps might get to low thirties at 8000 ft. I am guessing this comes down to experience and personal preference. For one night out, I could probably pull the extra closed cell foam backpad out of my pack and drop the pack down under my legs....might be a moot question.

 

7) Fuel. I am expecting to find lots of glacial runoff for water so I am not expecting on melting. However, I think we have one night and morning of melting on the dome glacier, with the possibility of a second night melting snow if we bivy in spider-formidable col the first night. We are carrying an MSR reactor and I am assuming we are boiling 4 liters of water a day for 6 days. Iodine for the rest. Does three 8-oz canisters seem sufficient at that elevation or should I plan for more melting snow with the Reactor?

 

Thanks!

 

Justin

 

 

 

 

Edited July 22, 2016 by Blacklab

[DPS]

Ditch the snow shovel, wands, screws, second ice tool, and the weather radio. One Z-Ridge is fine on glaciers. I would bring one 16 oz cannister (lighter than 2 8 oz) and one 8 oz. Go light young man!

 

[Water]

Should be more than enough fuel, the reactor is a champ for sipping it. And will you really do full boil of 4 (12) liters a day? Seems high unless that's 4 per the group. In which case two canisters. I think they get something like 30 liters boiled per canister..

 

Also highly recommended aquamira for water treatment over iodine, unless you're set on iodine. Aqua Mira will take a few minutes but taste is negligible and will make it pleasant to hydrate IMO.

 

 

 

[DPS]

Also highly recommended aquamira for water treatment over iodine, unless you're set on iodine. Aqua Mira will take a few minutes but taste is negligible and will make it pleasant to hydrate IMO.

 

 

+ 1. Aqua Mira uses Chlorine Dioxide, which is more effective against protozoans like Giardia sp. and Cryptosporidium parvum. ClO2 is also available in tablet form.

[Blacklab]

Ditch the snow shovel, wands, screws, second ice tool, and the weather radio. One Z-Ridge is fine on glaciers. I would bring one 16 oz cannister (lighter than 2 8 oz) and one 8 oz. Go light young man!

 

I thought the quote was "go west young man" . . . which is what we are doing!

 

Sounds good. If I were to take any of those, the second tool and a couple screws seems the most useful, but I don't know the conditions thoroughly right now.

 

[Blacklab]

Should be more than enough fuel, the reactor is a champ for sipping it. And will you really do full boil of 4 (12) liters a day? Seems high unless that's 4 per the group. In which case two canisters. I think they get something like 30 liters boiled per canister..

 

Also highly recommended aquamira for water treatment over iodine, unless you're set on iodine. Aqua Mira will take a few minutes but taste is negligible and will make it pleasant to hydrate IMO.

 

 

 

Great suggestion on the aquarmira; though if I were concerned about nuclear fallout the iodine would be a better choice... My taste buds will thank you and I will be better hydrated for it.

 

Regarding fuel 4 L is the estimate for three people per day. And not 4 every day, but that's just being conservative. Thanks for the thoughts!

[DPS]

If I were to take any of those, the second tool and a couple screws seems the most useful, but I don't know the conditions thoroughly right now.

 

Unless you are specifically planning on climbing steep ice routes (e.g. NF Spider), you can certainly make the traverse without screws or a second tool. I really think you should be ruthless when it comes to unnecessary weight.