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Posted (edited)

Trip: Terror Basin - via Goodell Creek

 

Date: 7/16/2016

 

Trip Report:

I'll try to keep this short, since there are plenty of TRs for this area of the Southern Pickets, and I didn't actually summit anything. Working on photos now figured it out.

 

Various weather forecasting sites called for intermittent drizzle Saturday morning, cloudy to clear Saturday afternoon through Sunday noon, and drizzle becoming thunderstorms Sunday afternoon. Sounded like a weather window to me! No potential partners thought it sounded like a weather window, though, so it was a solo trip.

 

The plan was to leave Seattle at 5 AM, get to the Marblemount ranger station for the permit at when they opened at 7 AM, and be hiking at 8 AM. I got to the ranger station at 7:15 and had to wait in line for 20 minutes; not something I was expecting for a rainy morning in one of the least-visited National Parks.

 

Anyway, I started hiking at 9 AM. It had been drizzling on and off since at least 6 AM, and the shrub-tunneling sections of the trail left me completely soaked by the time I got to the turn-off up the steep climber's trail (11 AM). It had stopped raining, but I was in a cloud from 3000' all the way to camp, so nothing had a chance to dry out. Fortunately the trail, while rough, was pretty easy to follow. I got off the trail at least half a dozen times on the way up, but was able to retrace my steps and find the trail again without ever losing much time. Above treeline you will often be looking for cairns instead of a beaten path; when you cross a stream and can't find cairns or a path anymore, try looking up the streambed.

 

The steep snow descent from the notch at 6200' was pretty exciting. A few steps after I put on my crampons I managed to snag my pant leg and lose my balance, but hung onto a snow bench and did't slide anywhere. The snow was pretty soft and I realized I didn't have the skills to French my way down, but low-dagger and frontpointing worked well until the slope eased off.

 

The creek through the bivy bench was pretty high; several tent sites were underwater. It looked like there were two sites that were high enough to be usable, although an enterprising party could flatten out a few more. I got the bivy area at 4:30 pm; 7.5 hours after I left the car.

 

The plan was to climb West McMillan via the West Ridge (class 3) on Sunday morning, but I felt so wrecked when I woke up that I decided to just hike out. After a brief shower right before I left camp at 8 AM, the weather was perfect until I got back to the turn-off at 1700' around 1 PM. Then it got wet again, and when I was driving out (at 3) I saw lightning in a few places.

 

Anyway, it was a fun trip and I'm excited to go back and actually climb some things. One night is probably not enough; I think I would try two or three next time.

 

Gear Notes:

Navigation: Gaia GPS app, which could only handle about 2 days on my shite phone (bring an external battery); the approach notes in the Beckey guide were awesome.

 

Snow travel: A short, light axe was great; longer ones would get horrible hung up on vegetation on the approach. Crampons were very nice; unfortunately I only have full-auto crampons, so had to wear my Nepal Evos. These were very heavy (especially when soaked), and I got some pretty vicious blisters on my heels and big toes. The bit of scrambling I did on the hike in and on some nubbins at the 6300' notch did not inspire confidence. I think mid-height approach shoes with strap-on aluminum crampons would be wonderful for this trip.

 

Dampness mitigation: I don't think it's possible.

 

Approach Notes:

From Marblemount, drive east on 20 until you cross Goodell Creek, then take the next left towards the Upper Group Campground. Continue to follow signs for the group campground on dirt roads until you find a sign warning that you're not at a maintained trailhead, along with a small gravel parking area.

 

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Edited by Todd Anderson
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Posted

Having walked that approach a few times, including once in the rain/mist, you are most certainly a glutton for punishment. Heading upwards thru the wet brush (and the attendant soaked boots and clothing) dissuades most folks.

 

West Mac is a worthy objective though (so is Inspiration!), so I'm sure you will be back.

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