[TR] Mt Adams - Mazama Glacier (solo) 7/1/2016

[ShadowTiger]

I arrived at the ranger station in Trout Lake, WA around 11 AM. The news I had received during an earlier phone call was confirmed; the parking lot / trail head at Bird Creek Meadows was closed and I would have to park at Cold Springs, which is the parking lot and trailhead for the popular South Spur route. When I checked in, the ranger explained the longer approach I knew I would have to do.

 

"Take the usual South Climb trail #183, until it intersects with the Round the Mountain Trail #9 and head East", she said. And then continued, "At some point you will need to go cross country and head for Sunrise Camp". I thanked her and headed for the car. The rangers were fairly busy and more cars were arriving as I drove off. They were expecting more than 100 people per day on the South Spur route..

 

I arrived at the trail head at 12:20 pm after the somewhat harrowing drive up the last 3 miles. The temperature was in the low 70s and the sky was brilliant blue. I hiked past some of the residual scorched forest and was soon at the branch point. As I went along trail #9, I wondered when I would find 'at some point'. I eventually came to what I thought was a good spot, consulted the map and drew a nice hypotenuse. I envisioned a nice straight shot to Sunrise Camp, minus needing to skirt around a few ridges.

 

Five hours, and 3000 vertical feet later, I dragged myself up to Sunrise Camp (8,500 ft). What a miserable slog in hot conditions and steep scree traverses! Maybe my deviation off of trail #9 should have been at, 'some other point'. I went with 'at some point' but maybe 'at some other point' really would have been a better choice. I dumped my pack and heard the faint whisper of voices. I trudged over a small rise and found a group of four. We exchanged some pleasantries and then I broke the ice. "Wow! That approach flipping sucked", I said.

 

The response was immediate and vociferous. There was much agreement and telling of slog tales. The group I met was so pissed at the approach that there were going to carry up and over and head down the South Spur route for the cars. I began to consider the options but decided to stick with plan A, and come back down the same route. I felt I could navigate a better route down from camp after seeing the terrain. We chatted and looked up at the route. We discussed timetables and probable routes. It was after 6 pm but the light was still more than sufficient to see several crevasses and a big bergschrund at the top of the lower ramp that we could see. They announced that they were planning on leaving at 5 AM. I planned to depart at 4 AM. I marveled that there were 5 of us here and probably near 100 on the Lunch Counter (the camp for the South Spur route).

 

I went back to my pack and set up camp for the night. I loved the views of Mt Hood and could also see Jeffy in the background. Looking up towards Mt Adams, I had great views of The Castle and the Klickitat Glacier. The temps were in the 50s and I eventually drifted off around 10 pm. During the night I could hear periodic rock and ice fall. At 1 AM I stuck my head out of my tent and was greeted with one of the most glorious star displays I have ever seen.

 

I woke up at 3 AM and left camp at 4 AM. As I headed up under headlight I was mindful of the crevasses. Unfortunately, I chose the gentler ascent line and was soon in the middle of the crevasses. There were not many. I skirted them and charged up to the bergschrund. I thought that I could see a work around to climber's left but this was an illusion. The bump in front of me soon materialized into a large, open scar. The left route was impassable and ended in a large cliff face. I probed back to the right, hoping I would find a bridge. As I came closer to the right I discovered that my options were limited. The bergschrund carved a 90 degree bend pointing back down the route. I was blocked.

 

I looked back down to where I started and saw the other party breaking camp under headlights. I pondered my present circumstance. I noted a pie shaped chunk of snow covered ice that was projecting from the inside of the 90 degree bend and was pointing towards the opposite wall. Unfortunately, it did not extend all the way. I next looked at all the backtracking I would have to do and the fact that I was poised above several open slots downhill.

 

I went for the pie slice. I belly crawled onto it and felt it with my arms. It felt really solid. As I crept further out I was aware of the drop to my left, and then the crumbling snow bridge on my right. Soon, I was draping legs on either side and gently scooting along. As I reached the apex, I realized I could reach and kick a toe hold onto the opposite wall with my left foot. The opposite wall was slightly higher than my perch and as I looked down my headlight couldn't find the bottom of the crevasse. I next used the same leg to kick a step slightly higher and to the right.

 

I then solidly buried my left front points in the lower toe hold. I swung my right leg up and over the pie-slice and engaged the other, higher step. I took my ice axe and buried it firmly in the top of the opposite wall, and then was soon up and walking again.

 

I stayed to the right on the route. It was steep in places but the snow conditions were excellent. Good crampon penetration on firm snow. The footing felt great. I was then greeted by the amazing glow of the oncoming dawn. Fifteen minutes later the first rays of sun, illuminating a partly cloudy sky, struck me. It was spectacular.

 

The snow looked icy but I was feeling strong and confident. My technique felt good and my pack felt like nothing. Green light.

 

I next hit a flatter section and the fear from the crevasse section had almost faded. The light was still early and the mountain wasn't completely visible. As I ascended I was confronted with a choice. Up to the right and center was a steep ramp. In the center/left was a wall with a snow rampart, and a complete side-to-side bergschrund. It looked like the mountain was grimacing at me. To the far climber's left, it looked more realistic. However, when I looked at my map and GPS it was clear that the most direct path to the false summit (Piker's Peak) was straight up the steep ramp on my right. The gentler path to the left took me completely away from the destination but I suspected this had a wandering path up.

 

I chose the ramp to the center / right and before long was a third of the way up. It then became much steeper and icier than it had initially appeared. Soon, I was using a dagger and front-point method and desperately wishing for a second tool. My left, gloved hand could only skim over the ice and provided little support other than minor balance. I halted and evaluated options. I did a risk assessment. I thought carefully about current conditions, my skill level, best technique, energy/fatigue level, route options, etc. Although, I was on steeper terrain and it was icier than I wished, indicators were green.

 

I focused on solid point placement, good flow, and self-confidence because I knew that my probability of self-arrest was low. I looked over to the right and saw the spectacular Kilickitat Glacier down below, and the headwall / icefall above.

 

As I crested the top of the ramp I took a break and a few photos. I could now see climbers on the South Spur route up and to the left. I looked back down and couldn't see the party of four that had started up the Mazama after me. I wished them well.

 

I side-hilled it onto the approach to Piker's Peak and encountered a really cool Canadian couple who had watched me crest the Mazama. I described where I had come from and they announced that I deserved a shot of Whiskey at the summit. I went upward and crested Piker's Peak, then crossed the flat traverse leading up to the last climb up to the summit. At 12,000 ft I really felt the altitude. At 0815 I reached the summit and was stoked to see fantastic views of Mt. Rainier, Mt St. Helens, Mt. Hood, and Mt Jefferson.

 

Shortly thereafter the Canadian couple arrived, and they were not kidding about the shot. They offered and it was delicious!! Thanks you two. Lots of folks were celebrating and helping take each others' photos. The clouds were burning off and it was a glorious morning. The temperature was 35 F, with sustained winds of 10 - 12 mph.

 

At 9 AM, after eating and hydrating, I headed down. The sun was fully out and it was getting hot. The snow was softening and it made for great plunge stepping. Below Piker's Peak I decided to remove crampons, put on hard shell pants, and glissade. I had a great time experimenting with different body positions. This was the most I have continuously slid and when I got up to walk both my butt and prostate were frozen.

 

I bypassed the steep icy ramp I had ascended -- and also the wall -- by going to skier's right. I ended up a little low on the route and had to ascend slightly, and cross to the left. Soon, I was on a flat section and watched 2 rope teams ascending the Mazama. They crossed to climbers left and were going to bypass the wall and steep ramp. I walked along and crossed some narrow vertical slots as I approached the bergschrund at the top of the lower ramp.

 

I looked down and spied Sunrise Camp, with some new tents that likely belonged to the guided group I had earlier seen. By 1125 AM I was back in camp. I was parched and quickly went about melting snow. I broke down my tent and by 1 PM was headed down. After consulting map and GPS, I realized that the exact path down didn't matter. Because trail #9 cut perpendicularly across my downhill route, all I had to do was follow the easiest fall line down and eventually I would hit trail. This proved remarkably easy. I picked up the trail without difficulty and was at the car by 4 PM.

 

All in all this trip was amazing. Challenging, fun, beautiful.

 

The drive in

 

Sunrise Camp

 

View of Mt Hood from camp

 

Looking up at the Mazama Glacier from camp. Note the crevasses.

 

The Castle and Klickitat Glacier viewed from camp

 

Sunrise on the Mazama Glacier.

 

The upper Mazama glacier. My route traversed to the left to join the South Spur route heading toward the false summit (Piker's Peak). Note the climber on this route. In the center is the Klickitat Headwall.

 

This climber displays his patriotism on the traverse from the false summit towards the final climb.

 

Summit!

 

Beautiful views from the summit

 

On my way down I spotted two rope teams on the way up (~1030 AM). My route was up the icy ramp in the center. Note the wall and bergschrund in the center/left.

 

Crevasses on the way down.

 

--

Gear Notes:

crampons, axe. Really could have used a second tool

Edited July 10, 2016 by ShadowTiger

[Juan Sharp]

I took my 19-year old son up this route one week before you. He's never climbed a thing but learned quickly on the fly. I must say we did not find anything close to the conditions you describe. One crack mid-way up the first slope which was easily crossed. After cresting that first slope we encountered nothing but low- to medium-angle snow before and after joining the south spur route. Did you stay to the right and climb the headwall?

 

Well done as a solo.

 

John Sharp

[Alisse]

Awesome! Good amount of detail, and it's great to read about thinking about risk assessment in a trip report.

[ShadowTiger]

...After cresting that first slope we encountered nothing but low- to medium-angle snow before and after joining the south spur route. Did you stay to the right and climb the headwall?

 

Well done as a solo.

 

John Sharp

Thanks ! :-)

Yes I stayed right and went up the headwall. The guidebooks have the usual route going left. You can see the guided group ( 7 climbers) angling left in one of my photos, taken on my way down while looking back up. I came down the standard route and it was quite different from the way I chose going up.

Straight up from camp in the morning I should have stayed right on the first slope and this would have avoided all the slots.

Cheers 😃

 

[ShadowTiger]

Thank you for the feedback. I really had fun on this route and in retrospect some fine tuning to avoid the 1st slope crevasses would have made it better.

Live, learn, love and grow 😃

./cheers

[Juan Sharp]

Got it and thanks for the further explanation. The regular route is quite benign, and for me the only difficulty was trying to keep up with my collegiate rower son. As expected, he slowed his pace at altitude but I still looked at his back all day (except on the first slope with the crack).