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[TR] Inspiration Peak - West Ridge 7/29/2015

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Trip: Inspiration Peak - West Ridge


Date: 7/29/2015


Trip Report:

Climbed Inspiration and McMillan both up their west ridges on Wednesday 7/29. Glaciers are in rough shape -- needed to approach Inspiration from far western (left side) of the glacier. Moat proved to be the crux getting into the gully with much loose and minimal protection. Upper three pitches are spectacular.


Wanted to get on the east ridge but large bergschrund and several slots blocked the way. Access appears to be possible by a committing rappel from Mac/Inspiration col.



Current view of Terror Glacier - we needed to access from far left edge of photo at 6500' straight across to west ridge.


The Money Pitches


Looking back at the west ridge gully and route. Crux was accessing the gully from snow finger across moat.




Gear Notes:

Glacier gear, small rack to 2" & some extra webbing.


Approach Notes:

Trail in great shape. We took 6 hours to high camp with several breaks.

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Nice - thanks. You guys were lucky to find a way up given how crappy that glacier looks right now.

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