num1mc Posted July 14, 2015 Posted July 14, 2015 I remember bumping into old Larry, and his wars against REI and the NPS. Funny thing is that back then, MRNP could refuse to give you a permit for Rainier if they didn't like your ice axe, and the Mountaineers had (according to Larry) 400+ Basic students. http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr/blog/mountain-safety-research-newsletter-archives/ Quote
Water Posted July 14, 2015 Posted July 14, 2015 thanks for sharing. good reads... though 20 minutes in I wondered if in 2015 I really needed to be as engaged with the wood shaft ice axe discussion..but fascinating to read. I think moreover I really appreciated seeing such casual prose from a company. It hadn't been shellacked with marketing speak. Quote
tbunch Posted July 17, 2015 Posted July 17, 2015 Oh, man that takes me back. I accidentally reopened an old feud between him and Tom Hornbein many years ago on Usenet when I was doing AMS research and was treated to some angry phone calls. Then a friend of mine married Larry's daughter. Well, dear Larry has long since passed on, as has the marriage in question, so hopefully I can't get in trouble again. Since we're already in the WayBack machine, let me take you back to 1996. The whole torrid affair is archived at FAQS.org and centers around Tums as a prophylactic against AMS. It lies somewhere between an incredibly dry read and high entertainment. -Tom Quote
mattp Posted July 18, 2015 Posted July 18, 2015 In 1989 I worked on some research on Mt. Rainier where we took climbers up the Emmons Glacier route, half receiving antacid and half receiving sugar pills. We also did physiological testing on the way up and down. We found no correlation between the use of antacids and wellness, but I believe ours was the first published study to link lung capacity to altitude illness(I think it was peak flow or VO2Max or something. Hornbein was one of the advisors on this project. I'm surprised there was anything left in this fight as late as 1996. Quote
tbunch Posted July 21, 2015 Posted July 21, 2015 Hornbein was one of the advisors on this project. I'm surprised there was anything left in this fight as late as 1996. That was Dr. Hornbein's reaction as well. Quote
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