Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
BenWA

Climbing above Camp Sheppard?

Recommended Posts

I've been wondering about this for a while but haven't found any info after much scouring -- what's the deal with the crags above Camp Sheppard out on 410? Are there established routes or topos or underground beta or secret handshakes? Or is it just a big chosspile not worth mentioning?

 

I've read a couple of posts about ice climbing there but nothing about summer routes.

 

Any leads or beta? My understanding is its on FS land so I can't imagine it's a huge access restriction...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, there is no access issues I'm aware of public land maps don't show any private inholdings. In addition there's a trail to Snoquera falls which is in the middle of the cliffs. When it comes to climbing, I'm not sure, I couldn't find anything, but in pictures it looks not too bad. The cliffs are 1000' feet of Miocene era Tuff, so some of it will be loose, and won't be the best climbing. Some of the better rock is near the falls. Which could be climbed when the falls are at low flow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, looks like it's mapped as Sun Top unit of the Clear West Peak rhyolite, which by the geologic unit description on the map is typically better rock quality than Ohanapecosh (which makes up a lot of the popular sport crags of North Bend). My guess is that it couldn't be all that bad for climbing, especially considering how vertically it stands.

 

Surprised there's no info on it.

 

I'm going to scope the area out soon and talk to some folks at the local FS branch. I'm curious, but also want to make sure it's not a marbled murrelet or other bird paradise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I worked for Camp Sheppard in the mid-90's and I wouldn't climb on those cliffs if somebody paid me. I did a bunch of looking around at the base of the falls and further down on the Palisades, and all the rock looks very loose.

However, during a late-night session of boredom, we went to the "west end" of the rock cut and put up a route on the buttress with the crack up the middle, went at about 5.8..... I was last over 410 about a month ago and the crack has since been filled-in with brush, etc.

I'd stick with the winter options in that area..... just my humble opinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Soooo......what happened?? I just discovered this area today and I am intrigued..... Who wants to scope it with me?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A few years ago I headed up there to scope for new routing opportunities. I surveyed a lot of the rock up close and came to the conclusion that it was all pretty horrible for climbing. I will say it does look promising from down below.. Super gorgeous place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×