Climbing above Camp Sheppard?

[BenWA]

I've been wondering about this for a while but haven't found any info after much scouring -- what's the deal with the crags above Camp Sheppard out on 410? Are there established routes or topos or underground beta or secret handshakes? Or is it just a big chosspile not worth mentioning?

 

I've read a couple of posts about ice climbing there but nothing about summer routes.

 

Any leads or beta? My understanding is its on FS land so I can't imagine it's a huge access restriction...

 

[cakeo48]

Yes, there is no access issues I'm aware of public land maps don't show any private inholdings. In addition there's a trail to Snoquera falls which is in the middle of the cliffs. When it comes to climbing, I'm not sure, I couldn't find anything, but in pictures it looks not too bad. The cliffs are 1000' feet of Miocene era Tuff, so some of it will be loose, and won't be the best climbing. Some of the better rock is near the falls. Which could be climbed when the falls are at low flow.

[BenWA]

Yeah, looks like it's mapped as Sun Top unit of the Clear West Peak rhyolite, which by the geologic unit description on the map is typically better rock quality than Ohanapecosh (which makes up a lot of the popular sport crags of North Bend). My guess is that it couldn't be all that bad for climbing, especially considering how vertically it stands.

 

Surprised there's no info on it.

 

I'm going to scope the area out soon and talk to some folks at the local FS branch. I'm curious, but also want to make sure it's not a marbled murrelet or other bird paradise.

[YakCLimber78]

I worked for Camp Sheppard in the mid-90's and I wouldn't climb on those cliffs if somebody paid me. I did a bunch of looking around at the base of the falls and further down on the Palisades, and all the rock looks very loose.

However, during a late-night session of boredom, we went to the "west end" of the rock cut and put up a route on the buttress with the crack up the middle, went at about 5.8..... I was last over 410 about a month ago and the crack has since been filled-in with brush, etc.

I'd stick with the winter options in that area..... just my humble opinion.

[BenWA]

Appreciate the insight Yak. Thanks.

[Kitergal]

Soooo......what happened?? I just discovered this area today and I am intrigued..... Who wants to scope it with me?

[Frankazoid]

A few years ago I headed up there to scope for new routing opportunities. I surveyed a lot of the rock up close and came to the conclusion that it was all pretty horrible for climbing. I will say it does look promising from down below.. Super gorgeous place.