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Posted (edited)

Hi there!

 

So a few of my friends and I are wanting to try and summit Glacier Peak over memorial day weekend. But I am curious as to if this is even possible in the early season? I haven't been able to find any recent trip reports that could give me any decent information.

 

So is Glacier Peak even a possible climb in May for those who don't have skis? If so, are there any good route recommendations? I know that there has been road closures for a while now but haven't been able to find any solid answer as to if the roads are now open or any alternatives that will still get us to the peak.

 

If this would be impossible to do, are there any other good early season climbs in the north cascades that aren't insanely technical? A scramble is fine with us but we aren't prepared to do an Alpine climb or anything, we're basically limited to a scramble or glacier slog right now.

 

Thanks!

Edited by Wllperegoy
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Posted

You should be fine, road is open to the TH and you can hike most of the way to White Pass without snow. We may get snow between now and then, but probably not a whole lot.

 

An east side back up trip could be the Gardners, Silverstar, or Stuart. All are easy scrambles.

Posted

My fiance started out on Friday intending to climb Glacier but got turned around due to unstable snow and failing cornices. She's a very experience winter traveler and decided conditions were not good ski touring. Her party ended up digging out platforms and bivying high on a ridge to get out in the morning when the snow was firmer. I don't have all the details of the trip but that's about as recent information as you're going to find today.

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