bonathanjarrett Posted May 3, 2015 Posted May 3, 2015 Trip: Illumination Rock - South Skylight Date: 5/2/2015 Trip Report: My partner and I climbed the South Skylight route on Saturday. Having climbed it in the past, twice, I was felt confident that we could leave the majority of the ice screws in the car. I was wrong. The route, and all the face right now, is fat with ice/snice. We had trouble finding any rock gear. The two ice screws that we did bring were not adequate to protect the route. The seams and cracks that I had used previously were all buried. In fact there was fat blue ice pouring out of the skylight itself. We left a cord and rap ring on the summit and two pins with an equalized cord below and to climbers left of the skylight. The other rap material that had existed previously had been bootied or was buried. The route could be climbed with just ice screws right now. That said the ice is fairly aerated. Looking down at the first belay The pin belay we left would be right over my partner's head in this photo Summit rap station, out right once you climb through the skylight Gear Notes: Two screws, could have used 6-8 Handful of pitons Slim rack to 2" Rap tat Quote
Ben Beckerich Posted May 4, 2015 Posted May 4, 2015 Thanks for the conditions update - I'm getting up there this week for sure, now. How many pitches are those north face lines? Seems like you ought to be able to climb up the base a bit and nab pretty much all of them with a 70m...? Quote
bonathanjarrett Posted May 4, 2015 Author Posted May 4, 2015 Two pitches. I doubt you could get down from the top of the skylight with double 70's in one shot, but I couldn't say for sure. Quote
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