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Access, Mt Garfield

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Did a bicycle approach recon on Garfield


the Middle Fork Rd (NF-5600) is closed for construction through 2016 but they allow bicycles. They are fixing washouts and laying down black top all the way to the Taylor river bridge.


It will be open to vehicles this summer but only on weekends, closed to vehicles during the week.


NF-5620 that takes off from the Taylor river bridge and goes below Garfield is getting washed out in multiple spots. Subaru okay but no Prius.


It took me 2.5 hrs to go 12 miles on the bike (I'm slow). The road construction was very muddy and they are digging a 10 ft deep pit for a section of roadway.


Got to about 2800 ft on the normal route on Garfield main (the top of the Becky "dirty gulley"). The snow started there but it was mushy and melting fast. The climbers trail to the right of the approach valley is getting very non distinct. This climb is sandbagged, rated 4+ there was some loose low 5 just in the dirty gulley approach.




Garfield West, I.B. Summit, Leaning Spire, Garfield Main (in clouds)




Garfield West and I.B. Summit, you can see the I.B. route here, the ramps, the slab area and the headwall.





Garfield West and I.B. Summit from the bivy at the start of regular Garfield route.





Leaning Spire, Garfield Main, Courte Echelle (which means...a mountaineering maneuver in which a climber clambers on the body or head of another in order to reach a hold)





curious bivy visitor





Who knew that a slug would like a nice campfire to keep warm? He was getting closer and further depending on how hot the fire was. He stayed the whole time (about 3 hours) until I fell asleep. We talked for a while but I had to speak v e r y s l o w l y, because hey, he is a slug. We talked of various things, politics and climbing, but he got a little upset when I blamed him for blocking the fast lane on I-90.

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