Mountain Athlete Training Plan Feedback?

[sportnoob]

I'm looking at one of the Mountain Athlete off-the-shelf training plans for general training for summer alpine climbing locally - either the "Big Mountain" plan or the "Guide Pre-season" plan.

 

I am willing to trade off some degree of sport-specific performance in moving uphill in exchange for "well-roundedness" that has long-term health benefits (like promoting muscular balance, strength, and injury prevention).

 

I've read TFNTA, and understand that Mountain Athlete is going to have a strength bias and have far less recommended aerobic volume. I feel like I come to the table a better aerobic athlete than strength or "work capacity", hence the appeal of the Mountain Athlete plans (training my weaknesses, perhaps improving "durability").

 

I'm concerned that the Mountain Athlete plans will make me more fit "all around" but leave me with an inadequate amount of aerobic fitness.

 

At the same time, I'm concerned at the nearly complete lack of emphasis in TFNTA of "conditioning" / higher - intensity efforts; these seem to be a staple of most other endurance training recommendations one sees (marathons, triathlon, etc usually once the target / peak period approaches).

 

Anyway - there's a lotta ways to skin the cat. I'd feel better plunking down the $$$ at Mountain Athlete finding out if people have had good experiences.

 

I realize that the ideal thing is to design my own program based on my own needs, but am interested in others' experiences as a reference point. Have folks had success "blending" these sorts of approaches?

Edited March 25, 2015 by sportnoob

[Bronco]

There is currently a similar but free plan at www.gymjones.com you just have to register. I think the upper five plans on this page are free, I'm into the second week of the "operator" and while not radically different from other training I've done, it is nice to have a varied program that I have to check a box each day. You can check them out here: https://gymjones.com/training-plans

 

A good place to start might be better definition of your goals, what are your climbing objectives this summer? Steep snow or 5.12 cragging?

[mthorman]

Training plans are a good start. Right now I am roughly following one while training for an Ironman Triathlon. However I have found for me it was more beneficial to understand the basis behind training; HR zones, fatigue, recovery, diet, etc. I am in the middle of reading "Training for the new Alpinism" by Steve House and Scott Johnston. I would highly recommend this book. I have learned much more about pushing my body during training and how things work together. It is geared more for Alpine climbing and getting in shape for endurance activities. Now I mostly use the "Training Plans" to get ideas for workouts more than a checkbox for each day.

 

If you are looking to improve more strength specifics like pushing rock grades then you might also check out "The Rock Warrior's Way" by Arno Ilgner. I found that I was able to increase my lead abilities by a number grade after applying his principles. It is about the mental side rather than the physical side of climbing.

 

Last thing I will say is consistency. Whatever you pick stick with it. I have a hard time with this as life seems to always get in the way, but when I actually do stay consistent for awhile I can always see the benefits. Good luck in your training!