Billy Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 We climbed a really cool route on the east facing crater wall on Broken Top on wednesday. After skiing into the entrance to the crater, the route starts in a broad couloir, narrows into a chimney, and then opens up again and ends at the most southwesterly summit. The first 150 meters starts low angle and then steepens to 55 deg. Then there is a short mixed pitch that goes up and right to gain the main narrow chimney which is about 20 meters. We made a rock belay on the right with pitons, but some stoppers and small tricams would be real helpful. The next pitch is the business, consisting of 60 meters of difficult mixed climbing, with alot of hooking on suspect cobbles and shaky pins for pro. Luckily for me, my partner lead this pitch.At the top of the hard stuff, we escaped on a ramp to the right. Then finally, there is about another 120 meters of 55 deg neve to the shoulder, with a short romp to that SW summit. I have seen the route with more ice, and it should be bettter later in the year, ie: spring. The crux pitch would be a beautiful WI 3 or 4 at that time. All in all an excellent outing with about 350 meters of climbing. When I get my pictures developed I'll try to post them if they are any good. I know of at least one other ascent of this climb in spring conditions, and one other possible ascent in winter conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 rock pro on BT... nice work! some of us were oggling that line last time in to do 11'o'clock C. Some dude in Bend has been climbing some of that stuff and some new ice stuff on S. Sister...was that your partner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 how long did the approach take? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted January 10, 2003 Author Share Posted January 10, 2003 Rob- It took about 2:15 from the Mt Bach nordic center on skis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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