Aging Bolts and Other Scary Tales

[MrGecko]

But seriously...

 

READ IT!

 

http://www.climbing.com/climber/built-to-last/

 

[ivan]

if a sport climber breaks a bolt and goes screaming to his death...

[GerritD]

This article is very relevant to my interests. I have been looking at bolting some routes locally and I have done a ton of research to figure out what we need west of the cascade crest.

 

Personally I decided that zinc plated steel is not good enough around here. As they mention in the article it will work for a few years but needs to replaced sooner so eventually the crags are going to be covered in old rusted holes and clipped bolts. I think that we should at least be using stainless steel and I am even considering marine grade just to save myself from replacing it 10 years from now.

 

I don't see bolts discussed much on here other than flaming about alpine descent routes. What are other opinions about what kind of materials should be used for bolting in Western Washington?