bigwalling Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 I'm wondering about this route. It is an aid route on the Upper Wall at Index. It climbs the arete to the right of 12 angery bees. Anyone know anything about it? Who did the F.A.? Has it seen any traffic? Jake Quote
erik Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 fairly sustained climbing and techincal... wallstein did the fa with a group of friends on different days.... it can go higher then it already does lots of thin nailing Quote
Wallstein Posted January 8, 2003 Posted January 8, 2003 The route starts just to the left of Non-local Barkhouse, I think. It is a very incipient line. The last 30 or so feet finish on NLB and then belay at the anchor for Twelve angry bees. The first pitch consisted mostly of #2 heads and a couple of #1 s with a few small aliens. The next pitch goes up the first two bolts of swim and then continues straight up using heads, beaks and rurps. I think those are the only things I placed on this pitch. after 70ft or so I veered left through some big loose flakes and used a bolt on 12 angry bees for a belay. This belay probably isn't needed but the full pitch would be A4+R without it. I have done some pitches rated that hard but I wouldn't commit to this one. After the belay I stepped back right onto the steep arete. Scary #1 knifeblades and rurps for 40 feet leed to a little easier terrain, not much easier. The pitch finishes on the huge ledge where the swim belay is. The next pitch hasn't been finished. It starts up the bolt ladder and then penji's left to hooks and rivets of dubiuos quality. I rapped off of a rivet below a huge balancing tooth pick that would be extremely hard to get around without drillin or trundling the feature. The route would go to the top but it would require some more seriuos climbing or some easy drillin. I think the route would go to the top of the cliff with a 70m rope. I don't believe the route has seen any traffice besides mine. The difficulties are comparable to Native Son and Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Cap. Quote
erik Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 what is this sharma's super taco's know??? giving away all the good beta??? Quote
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