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markwebster

[TR] twenty one days in Smith and Squamish - many 9/19/2014

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Trip: twenty one days in Smith and Squamish - many

 

Date: 9/19/2014

 

Trip Report:

I spent my September break in Smith and Squamish with 3 different partners. I would have spent it all in Squamish had I known that the Chief campground was the THE place to meet partners...but I didn't learn that until I got to Smith where I ran into an Aussie who had been living at the Chief.

 

Without further ado, here is the eye candy:

Marty following St. Vitus Dance 5.9 at Squamish

 

squamish-9-14_0048.jpg

 

 

Marty following Karen's Math 10a, which adds a pitch to St. Vitus

squamish-9-14_0069.jpg

 

Marty, Karen's Math.

squamish-9-14_0076.jpg

 

I know most of you appreciate beauty in all its forms. My friend Alex is a very lucky guy, they have 2 kids. His wife Kristi is a lot of fun. This is them posing on the bench on top of Penny Lane:

 

squamish-9-14_0012.jpg

 

squamish-9-14_0022.jpg

 

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Alex is a bold young man, he tried to onsite Split Beaver 10b offwidth. He got all the way up to the second #4 placement before lowering off. I felt like Jim Whittaker. The sherpas had stocked all the high camps, all I had to do was hike up, throw in a #5 and summit. That was super fun climbing that thing clean at long last. Now I just need to place my own gear :-)

squamish-9-14_0033.jpg

 

I drove to Smith and met my nephew. It was interesting climbing with family. If he dropped me, he would be in trouble with his mom. If I dropped him, I'd be in trouble from my sister. We decided to climb carefully. We did Wherever I may Roam 5.9 bolts:

IMG_1130_0172.jpg

 

I also led him up Karate. Sent the darn thing clean again, so I guess last March wasn't a fluke.

 

Richard showed up for a few days and we did the 5.8 river side trad approach to the Pioneer Route on the monkey. It was fun to stand on top again 35 years after my first trip up there.

 

Richard, approaching the bolt ladder on Monkey face, Smith Rocks.

 

 

IMG_1183_0110.jpg

 

Richard in the Monkeys mouth:

IMG_1194_0122.jpg

 

We also did Zebra Zion. It was 90 in the shade, and at least 100 in the sun...we baked...bad.

IMG_1209_0094.jpg

 

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Looking up at Richard leading the 5.9 money pitch Zebra Zion:

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In between partners at Smith, I painted these two paintings:

smith1-9-14.jpg

 

smith-crooked-river_0219.jpg

 

Forgive me for putting in a plug, but I got laid off at work (to half wages) and have been developing my art career. I'm having a show in Olympia. Artist reception this Friday at 5pm, of outdoor paintings, including one of the river below Castle Rock, Leavenworth:

 

fall-show-14.jpg

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

We carried a dream rack, and busted it up for specific routes. For example, 4 #2 yellows on Karate, 2 #4s and a 5 on Split Beaver, etc.

 

Approach Notes:

nothing more than 45 minutes

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Very cool trip Mark, and I love the new art as well. I hope things go well for your show!

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