[TR] Mt. Baker - North Ridge Car to Car - North Ridge 7/8/2014

[JColinOlson]

Trip: Mt. Baker - North Ridge Car to Car - North Ridge

 

Date: 7/8/2014

 

Trip Report:

After climbing Liberty Ridge my partner Ken still had 3 days until he flew back to Yosemite Valley. We decided to rest for 1.5 - 2 days and see if we could get on one more thing before he left. I had been up in the Glacier, Washington region for a couple days before he flew in and had kept my eye on Baker while I was there, it looked good.

 

Doing it car to car seemed like the best idea, neither of us wanted to carry much, and I have a friend that lives in Mt. Baker Rim, about 300 yards from the turn off to Glacier Creek Road. Thanks Joey!

 

We hit the trailhead around 3:20 am. Two stream crossings were entertaining and the snow was thankfully quite firm in the forest. We used a mix of the winter and summer trail, eventually gaining the Heliotrope and making water and stashing gear at those high camps (don't know what they are called) before you get on the glacier. We slogged up the Coleman, navigating our way quite easily in the early morning light through the crevasses. I wish I remembered at what elevation we crossed the Coleman, but it was lower than I was expecting to.

 

 

It was all strait forward and clear, we unroped as we reached the north ridge, which we gained in beautiful weather and very good visibility. We were gaining a party in front of us quite quickly so we strolled a bit and talked as we climbed up to the base of the ice section. We scouted options as we approached the base of the ice. As we reached the base, the party in front of us decided to bail on a more direct route they had chosen and traverse over and take the ridge proper, which we had been aiming at. It was a beautiful day, so we couldn't really complain about having to rest and take in the beautiful views all around us. We decided to rope up for this section and simul climb through it.

 

 

It was fun climbing. Once on top of the upper North Ridge we put the rope away and simul soloed to Grant Peak.

 

 

 

It was as calm a day as I have even seen on top of Baker.

 

 

I believe we were on the summit around 10:30. We hung out for around 30 minutes, and then headed for the Roman wall and the descent of the Coleman-Deming. The Roman Wall was breakable crust over sugar snow as the sun was just reaching it, not my favorite, but it isn't that long. We slogged it out to the stashed gear and hiked out to the car. We were back to the car in a total time of 10 hours 31 minutes, which we were happy with given the breaks we took, and the hard climb only 40 hours previously.

 

We drove down to Mt. Baker Rim and were enjoying the pool and beer!

 

Gear Notes:

2 pickets, 6 screws (once again, too many), one tool/one axe, 40m 7.8 rope

 

Approach Notes:

Heliotrope

[Whatcomboy]

Sheesh, you guys are fast.

[goatboy]

That's ridiculously fast, as I see it.

[mthorman]

Nice job guys and an impressive time. Did it 2 days after you guys with great weather and conditions as well. The snow bridge across the upper Bergshrund probably won't be around much longer. Did you guys use it (the one way out left) or did you find a different way?

[JColinOlson]

We did use it. I think that both of us got on that route before it really requires much thought up top. Which we were ok with!