Exfoliation Dome, Jacob’s Ladder

[curtveld]

No photos, just a quick beta blast update on this amazing route, from my recent visit with 'Jopa' Joe.

 

Access: Highway 530 through the Oso slide is completely clear for normal 2-way traffic. The 2060 and ‘bridge fork’ are bumpy but fine. After you cross the bridge toward Exfo, the first wash is pretty rough for a 2WD. Fortunately it only adds 10 minutes to walk from there.

 

Route: What an awesome line this is! Endless thanks to Mr. Perkins and his crew. Pitches 3-6 are significantly steeper than any other Dtown route I’ve been on and the climbing is very entertaining. Pro is excellent, all bolts are in good shape, though some nuts could use tightening. If you use aid on pitch 4, the free crux is the leftward slab moves on pitch 3, which I’d not hesitate to call 10c (vs. "10b" on the topo).

 

Being a mid-10 leader, was glad to have aiders for pitch 4. Be warned that some of the bolts are a bit beyond ‘bolt-ladder’ spacing. Be prepared to get up in that top step...and beyond.

 

The most puzzling thing was the lack of recent traffic on this spectacular route. From the needle debris on anchors, we appeared to have been one of the first parties of 2014.

 

If you haven’t done this one yet, put it on your list. You shouldn't have to wait in line!

[mattp]

You can aid that "bolt ladder" with some extra 24" runners and maybe a shorter one to substitute for a "top loop" if you don't bring etriers.

[dberdinka]

That is a really spectacular climb. Seems there are too many great routes and not enough climbers to regularly climb them anymore. Exfo might sadly be a little to far off the beaten path these days.

[curtveld]

As a local guidebook put it: "Darrington is one of the most under-rated rock climbing areas in Washington, but by all accounts it shouldn't be....Perhaps it is the weather, the moss and dirt, or else the fact that Index has become the place to be(and be seen)."