[TR] Mt Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier/North Ridge Finish 7/1/2014

[ScaredSilly]

Trip: Mt Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier/North Ridge Finish

 

Date: 7/1/2014

 

Trip Report:

Stupid wet white men walking in circles -

 

My friend Vince and I decided that Mt. Jefferson would be our trip objective. So armed with an inaccurate weather forecast we headed in to Jeff Park. Though the weather was marginal going in we thought it would clear. But it did not. So after being tent bound in the rain for 36 hours we bailed and starting hiking in the rain again.

 

We had got into Jeff Park which from the PCT was all snow. Going out we wandered a bit in the rain and fog to find a descent crossing - the Whitewater Creek is raging and the snow bridges are weak. We finally found a good crossing on snow and got back to our original tracks. Stupid wet white men walking in circles.

 

After a couple days of drying out and armed with a good forecast we headed back into Jeff Park. The weather on Monday was stellar. We found our crossing - a good log about 1/4 mile up from the trail. We cross through Jeff Park and headed up high to around 6500 on the left side Jefferson Glacier along a moraine.

 

From here we got a good look at the route. Jeff Park Glacier on the left then up to join the North Ridge up high. This variation is shown in Oregon High but oddly Jeff does not describe it. We chose this variation because while the Jeff Park Glacier is straight forward the knife edge ridge above is not especially when covered in rime. Which is currently the case.

 

Heading up the glacier we crossed a small shrund just below the first rock band which we skirted on the left. From here we head straight up into the next rock band. Here we found a small semi rotten ice chute which to pass through.

 

After clearing the rock band we climbed straight up to gain the north ridge proper. From here one climbs up and left over a series of small ribs. Now in the sun the snow was firm but getting soft. Eventually we came around a corner and were right across from the plateau / col of the north ridge. (I.e. as described in Oregon High one could not climb up through a chute to gain the upper ridge - one had to traverse around what I like call the Unconglomerated Monster that form the upper north ridge).

 

From the plateau / col we traverse over to the pinnacle which was completely covered in rime. Much of which was starting to deteriorate. We did the 4th class route which being covered in rime was easier and harder. Easier climbing but no real pro. I set a couple of screws but they were marginal. The route goes up a short chute followed by a traverse to the right up another chute which leads to the summit. The coup de grace was the finial step was rotten 4 foot step. That was fun given the lack of pro. Especially as we down climbed it.

 

We took 7 hours to top out and another 4 to descend via the Mill Creek / Russell Glacier. It was a wet sloppy descent. But we finally got back to camp to enjoy a nice evening. That is until about 2am when the lightening and rain storm started. We descended in the morning in the rain and found our trail back, even found the log to cross the creek. We laughed at our luck. Stupid wet white men walking in circles.

 

Gear Notes:

Pickets as the snow is rotten, screws will work in a few places.

 

Approach Notes:

Jeff Park trail - cross the creek 1/4 mile up stream on a log. Jeff Park is very soggy right now. Bivy up high on the left side of the Glacier in the moraine, descend via the Russell Glacier.

 

Props:

The Cedars restaurant in Detroit for letting us stash a vehicle at there lot while we climbed. Also their breakfast omelet is excellent.

 

Left side of Jeff Park Glacier. Routes goes up to the shrund, passes the first rock band on the left, then straight through the second to the north ridge in the sun light.

 

Going up through the second rock band.

 

The summit ridge coming in from the north.

[Ben Beckerich]

Observe any real rockfall on the north ridge? I've read that can be pretty dodgy... perhaps there's enough snow still?

 

Am looking at heading up this comign Tuesday/Wednesday.. looks like its probably still gonna have a decent winter coat, even after all this sun

[Ben Beckerich]

Early start on climb day might be in order....

[ScaredSilly]

No real rock fall and enough snow to cover everything. Once the snow is gone the north ridge is not the way to go. The day we climbed was the hottest day of the year. Well into the 90s in the Willamette Valley. It would not have matter much what time we started.