[TR] Mount Hood - Mazamas Chute up, Old Chute Down 5/23/2014

[kabelme]

Trip: Mount Hood - Mazamas Chute up, Old Chute Down

 

Date: 5/23/2014

 

Trip Report:

Probably should have posted this much earlier. Left Timberline late Thursday night. Snow very slushy until well above Palmer. Put on crampons just below Devil's Kitchen.

 

Bergshrund at Hogsback very wide, like 40' wide. Nobody really going up Pearly Gates.

 

Lots of excellent boot holes going up. Had to pass a very slow 14 person Mazama group ironically in the Mazama chute.

 

Nice view from Summit, but clouds coming. By the time we got back to Hogsback, we were in white out from there all the way to Timberline.

 

Actually started glissading, but found ourselves sliding towards zigzag canyon. Fortunately, with GPS cookie crumbs, very easy to get back on track.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Used Ice Axe and Petzl Ice Tool. Crampons, Helmet.

[Ramkathi]

do you really need icetool , what is the angle like?

[Ben Beckerich]

do you really need icetool , what is the angle like?

 

Angle varies, depending on time of year, and recent weather conditions. Expect the terrain above Devil's Kitchen (the east crater floor) to vary between 30-45 degrees. Pearly gates is currently 45-50 up to the gates themselves, mellowing out from there. The Old Chute is no worse than 45.

 

Two tools are nice if it's icy, but never necessary (except for the Gates, when it's stepped). If it's soft, a single axe is preferable, for weight savings and self-belay. It can be done with an axe in any condition (except for the above exception) though- provided the wielder possess competent technique.