Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Mount Hood - Mazamas Chute up, Old Chute Down 5/23/2014

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mount Hood - Mazamas Chute up, Old Chute Down


Date: 5/23/2014


Trip Report:

Probably should have posted this much earlier. Left Timberline late Thursday night. Snow very slushy until well above Palmer. Put on crampons just below Devil's Kitchen.


Bergshrund at Hogsback very wide, like 40' wide. Nobody really going up Pearly Gates.


Lots of excellent boot holes going up. Had to pass a very slow 14 person Mazama group ironically in the Mazama chute.


Nice view from Summit, but clouds coming. By the time we got back to Hogsback, we were in white out from there all the way to Timberline.


Actually started glissading, but found ourselves sliding towards zigzag canyon. Fortunately, with GPS cookie crumbs, very easy to get back on track.




Gear Notes:

Used Ice Axe and Petzl Ice Tool. Crampons, Helmet.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
do you really need icetool , what is the angle like?


Angle varies, depending on time of year, and recent weather conditions. Expect the terrain above Devil's Kitchen (the east crater floor) to vary between 30-45 degrees. Pearly gates is currently 45-50 up to the gates themselves, mellowing out from there. The Old Chute is no worse than 45.


Two tools are nice if it's icy, but never necessary (except for the Gates, when it's stepped). If it's soft, a single axe is preferable, for weight savings and self-belay. It can be done with an axe in any condition (except for the above exception) though- provided the wielder possess competent technique.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this