Ozone - Variation to the Upper Variation of Ripper

[MrGecko]

Climbed Piton Variation (shown as 61 in the topo below) today above Ripper up to the big ledge. The old mangled piton in that route looks ok but doesn't do much to protect the section, if you miss the throw you'll meet the upper deck.

 

Exploring alternatives, we climbed the crack system to the left of the Piton Variation. It was a bit choked up with shrubery so did a wee bit of cleaning. With a similar character to its neighbor, it can be protected with a 1 and/or 2 MasterCam and goes about 10-

 

Calling it "Full Jack"

 

Anyone know if this has been done before?

 

Route highlighted - topo from Portland Rock Guide

 

Looking up from the top anchors above Ripper at left hand crack system

[MrGecko]

It had a 2nd and 3rd ascent and the consensus so far is 5.10-

 

We also made a team effort to clean out the garden on TippTopp so that route is looking more inviting.

 

 

[kevbone]

Climbed Orion the other day. forgot how fun that is.

[LostCamKenny]

Its a fun link up to continue up this after doing Ripper. Makes for alomst an actual pitch. Watch the prominent pointed hold above the crux.... it's barely attached(Let me specify: the first pointed hold above the crux). Finishing up on Orion makes an already worthwhile variation even more worthwhile.